Right now, Melissas SE has kinda a rough idle,
2.) WOT there is a rattling noise that goes away after a second or two
3.) Gas gauge at idle, occasionally drops to E then will either go back to F or whatever it may be at the time or you need to shut the car off and restart.
4.) At a stop, with the blinker on, the engine sounds the lull everytime the blinker flashes, but the alternator and battery were checked and were okay.

1) Do you know when the plugs and wires were replaced?
2) Noisy catalytic converter? Hear a rattle when you smack on it?
3) Probably fuel sender unit in the tank. A fairly common problem.
4) Not sure what you're describing here. Is the motor speed varying in time with the blinker?

Do you know were the rattle is coming from. What is the voltage the guage doing when enigie souds lull. I am thinking you might have ground problem, boy I am glad you don't my car has never had one problem with that. If you need borrow a cruict tester just pm me

Chad

Electrical: I'm with Archon, Remove and check for good connections on both cables at each of their connection points. Clean the body grounds on each front fender. Seems very possible it'* bad connection. Pull and clean is the key here. I recently did this..it'* not bad. Dremel with wire brush attachment...then a little dielectric to keep them corrosion free.

Rattle: Kick her in the cat. Then check the pcv. Rattle on a cat is usually heard when you start moving and can be felt at the first mashing to WOT, however it'* usually more prominent on slow starts.

Fuel gauge: errrrr uh.. I think there was a resisitor tech bulletin on 97-99 years. Where you inserted a resistor before swapping the sender. Need to search. Could also be related to your electrical issue.

1. Ill have to check the wires. She said that someone said the plugs were okay. I dunno
2. I was under the car and knocked on the converter but didnt hear anything rattling around
3. How hard and how expensive is the sender unit to do?
4. The idle at stop is varing, kinda like if you hold all your window buttons and the motor kinda lulls in sound with the quick extra load on the system, thats what it sounds like with the blinker on every time the blinker ticks.

The sender is about 3 bills and you have to drop the tank to replace it.

In view of this, I decided to live with it.

Exactly. Chad, undoubtedly, it'* the sender. It cost me $330 for a new sender from a local GM supply house. You have drop the tank to fix it.

I've found that if you cut the wheel back and forth a few times at speed, it returns to accuracy.

Also, this only happens in my car when I top it off, and only lasts for about the first 30 miles.

2.) TRUE... that'* EXACTLY it! I thought that maybe it was that part... can it be fixed or would I need a new one? If so how much do they run? Can it be put in with just me and chad?

OMG Chad... YOU said that!!! geez