The wires go between the PCM and the relay center. In low speed mode, the left fan spins at high speed and the right fan spins at low speed. In high speed mode, both fans spin at high speed.

When the line is grounded, the fans turn on. When the line is ungrounded, the fans turn off. Don't think of the grounding as a short; rather, think of it as completing the circuit. There might be problems if you place a lamp in series with the relay on the line, in that the lamp needs to be able to handle the current without causing a significant voltage drop. Without getting an ammeter out, I can say for certain. An LED almost certainly wouldn't work unless it is designed for significant current. A better way to do it would be to place an LED and a resistor accross the coil side of the relay, in parallel with the relay. In that case, the light would light whenever the fan is on.

i want one jeff, you could probably sell one to every member here. Grand Prix owners do it too, they said its about a $5 install.


Lee

I am going to try to wire up a switch tomorrow I think, to see if I can get the fans to come on VIA switch. I might need some additional help and info from you jeff when I get into it, depends on how difficult it is. What are you thinking about selling?? Something that would just plug in instead of splicing? If thats the case you could count me in too.

Advance Auto sells a little kit you can buy for like $9, that has a little metal temp probe you slide in under the upper radiator hose. It detects the temp, and from there you can control what temp you want the fans to come on (somehow). I know it is mainly meant for aftermarket cooling fans, because it is right in the section with all the other electric fans you can buy for cars with clutch fans, to replace them. Not sure if it could be wired to stock fans on our bonnies. Myabe I'll pick one up tomorrow to check it out.

Later!

I didn't know I was selling anything, but hey, if there'* enough demand for something electronic, I'll build it. Just tell me what you want.

Did anybody follow through with this? Living in Las Vegas even in the winter I would like to have my fans run at my discression or at least at a lower temp. With the traffic as bad as it can get I sometimes do a lot of low speed and / or stopped in traffic. My only concern to putting a switch on the PCM side of the relay is the possible damage to the PCM.
Any ideas?

I had a similar problem with a 77 Camaro running 12s. It turned out the radiator was partially clogged from age. Any chance this might be happening?

Hi

Did anyone come up with a solution? My LSS, although I swapped to a 180 Tstat, trans cooler and ditched Dexcool for Prestone Grn/yellow, still reaches an uncomfortable 220-230 in traffic.


With all the great sages on this board..there must be a AUTOMATIC solution. No switches, please.

Running 220 in traffic is pretty normal for these Buick drivetrains. Not alot of danger, as long as it'* not for extended periods of time. Turning your climate control on Auto will force both fans into high speed mode to cool it off. Running a bypass switch would do the same thing for manual control. www.grandprixstore.com sells one for the Series2, but it will probably work for the Series 1 as well. Wiring one from scratch would be rather simple if you know what an electon is.

The thermostat won't help much if you're in traffic or idling. You still need air flow.

Hi


Since this LSS is in pristine condition...I really dont want to start adding switches to it. I save that sort of cut and hack operation for my Jeep.

There must be some sort of way to lower the PCM'* toleration of high temps. I would like a "OEM" like mod...which is somewhat invisible to the casual observer.

Hmmm....well, you could do the coolant fan override trick without the switch. Just run a thermocouple under the hood into an unused water jacket plug. Have the fans kick on high when the ECT or added TC reaches 200°. Totally automatic.