Coolant Elbow - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 12-08-2010, 09:41 PM   #21
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Im not sure if this thread is dead but...I replaced LIM gasket and UIM etc on my 96 vin K, 190k miles motor this summer. Engine runs great, but I am having problems with the lower plastic coolant elbow. The first one I installed leaked, thought it was defective, so installed another and its doing the same. Usually leaks a couple drops until the engine is warm, but the leak has gotten really bad with the extremely cold weather.

It seems as if the placement of the manifold itself is too far (all the way to the right) and doesn't allow the elbow to be inserted far enough. Im pretty sure everything is assemblied right. Im planning on redoing again this weekend, is it okay to put rtv on the orings and plastic elbow. Any suggestions
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Old 12-08-2010, 09:47 PM   #22
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Forgot to add the leak is from both orings on the plastic elbow. The lower intake side is 80%, the tensior side is about 20% To my knowledge the plastic is not cracked
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Old 12-09-2010, 07:28 AM   #23
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To clear something up, technically there are usually two elbows. In your case though, the lower one is part of the tensioner and metal with an o-ring on it. Newer styles got a second plastic elbow.

It sounds like your having a sealing issue. The typical reason behind this is that the area wasn't as clean as it needs to be when a new elbow was put in or the new elbow was not lubed to be put in.

When you pull it apart, clean the LIM and tensioner where the elbow goes wtih steel wool and ensure the ridge from the previous elbow is smoothed and gone. Then lightly oil or vasoline the o-rings on the new elbow and insert it. It should move smoothly. As you are tightening the tensioner, wiggle the elbow a little to ensure it sits square to the engine/tensioner. If they are pinched, the heat of the coolant can distort the shape from 90 degrees to something around 60 degrees, and then it'll leak.
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Old 12-09-2010, 04:51 PM   #24
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Thanks Bill. I actually cleaned both holes with 400 grit sandpaper (cringe, i know) with carb cleaner. And lubed orings. Like what you said I think the plastic elbow is slightly cocked also not inserted far enough. When I redoit ill use steel wool. Do you see any problem using RTV to ensure a good seal?
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Old 12-11-2010, 11:57 AM   #25
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Thanks for the help!

So i just redid the elbow with a new gm part with a little rtv. Decided to ru-use the large o-ring on the water pump connection. Hope this doesn't come back to bite me.

I now understand why the alignment of the elbow is critical....but its so damn hard to know when you got it. Crossed my fingers, hoping for the best.
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Old 12-11-2010, 05:02 PM   #26
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And she runs...no leaks. Thanks again

Unfortunately left the connector off alternator for about 10-15 minutes and practically drained the battery. Reconnected and ran for an 1hr with no change in voltage. Hopefully I didn't kill the battery!
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Old 12-11-2010, 05:06 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burns375 View Post
And she runs...no leaks. Thanks again

Unfortunately left the connector off alternator for about 10-15 minutes and practically drained the battery. Reconnected and ran for an 1hr with no change in voltage. Hopefully I didn't kill the battery!
I ran my car with the alternator'* 4-pin connector unplugged for about 30 seconds one time. Now, my nine-month old DieHard is down to less than 40% life. Related? Tough to say; I have a couple other electrical variables.
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Old 12-11-2010, 05:59 PM   #28
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Man i think I fried the battery, hopefully not the alternator! It just won't charge anymore. I driving at about 8 volts on the gauge fine. Then I came back home and let it idle for about 15 minutes. Well the headlights came on and the volts dropped to nothing and the engine stalled, wouldn't start. Then i hooked my truck up to it with jumper cables. Ran it for about 20 minutes to about 10 volts. Drove it around the neighborhood and the battery dropped in volts again, nearly almost didn't get back

The 4 pin connector is for voltage regular. So probably sent too much volts/current to the battery when the connector wasn't attached. Can anyone confirm if it is the battery or alternator. If its just the battery Ill take it back to Autozone and trade it for a new one. Its less than 3 months old.
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Old 12-12-2010, 03:09 PM   #29
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Anyone....
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Old 12-12-2010, 09:04 PM   #30
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Wish I had a solid answer for you, but I can't say anything for sure, as I didn't test my battery prior to the alternator incident.

There are two things car batteries hate: long periods between charging, and deep discharges (like what you did). I would definitely find someone with a plug-in battery charger (Advance has one in-store) and let it sit on the charger for two to three hours. If you're lucky, that'll give your battery a new lease on life.

If not, hey, batteries could be more expensive.
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