98 SE Engine code K

Engine would not crank but solenoid clicked. Suspected bad starter. I went out of town so it was about 2 weeks before I replaced starter. After replacing starter, started engine and it ran but there was a loud whine which I could tell quickly was the water pump bearings. When replacing water pump I noticed low coolant level but continued replacing water pump and then started engine. It ran but idle was rough and after about 30 seconds, it quit. I turned key to start and engine turned over at normal speed but did not run. I waited a couple of minutes and turned key again and engine would not turn over. It acted like it was locked up. I thought about the rest of the day and the next day, I pulled the spark plugs and cylinders 1 and 2 were full of coolant. Does anyone know what is going on or what I should do?

I never saw the temperature gage go too high. I saw it at about 195 a couple times but no hotter. I check radiator level every couple of weeks and never saw it low but I don't remember the last time I checked it.

I hate to say this, but it sounds like the upper intake has failed, an all too common problem. I lost my engine to it. Coolant in the cylinder is a bad sign. There is much written about it on this forum, and in this section.

I believe that in certain cases it'* possible to crank out the coolant -- IF the rods have not warped. Keep your fingers crossed.

There are true experts here who can tell you how to proceed much better than I can, but probably checking the upper plenum is going to be at the top of the list.

If the plenum needs replacing I'd probably get a Dorman. I have a newer Delphi, and it is fine, but I worry sometimes.
Good Luck to you.

Drain your oil immediately before your rod bearings rust, or you'll lose the entire engine.

Read the Techinfo article on this subject.

Please do. I lost an engine and tranny due to this engine threw a rod through the tranny. It wasn't pretty)

Absolutely - I agree with the above. Don't wait. Whatever you're doing, if there is any possible way to stop it, get out there right now and drain that oil!

Here'* the techinfo link.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=38

Thanks for the help. I drained the oil as soon as I saw the problem. I hope it was soon enough.

Good start!

If you have any comfort level with tools, the UIM replacement is not too bad. However, while you are in there it would be wise to also replace your LIM gaskets with the improved aluminum-framed version now available.

BTW, the best off-the shelf fix for your UIM IMHO, is the APN sleeved upper with reduced diameter EGR stovepipe. You will find a link to the APN part in the Techinfo article cited above. The APN pipe will fit right into your lower intake manifold if it is stock.

Replaced UIM gasket yesterday, added oil but not coolant, engine cranked but would not run. Checked for fuel and spark and had both. Quit for the day and came back this afternoon, about 20 hours later, and engine was locked up and had oil on spark plugs. Any help?

that does not sound too good. Dont know what to tell you in this case other than what a common cause of oil on plugs is:


A spark plug shorted by excessive oil entering the combustion chamber is shown below. This is often caused by piston rings or cylinder walls that are badly worn. Oil may also be pulled into the chamber because of excessive clearance in the valve stem guides, or badly worn valve stem seals. If the PCV valve is plugged or inoperative, it can cause a buildup of crankcase pressure. This condition can force oil and oil vapors past the rings and valve guides into the combustion chamber.




having exessive coolant in the oil will cause more pressure and has the tendancy to not only take out bearings but other things like seals as well.