My 97 doesnt have any condensation under the cap...but I use synthetic oil and my shortest trip is 35 minutes.

Most cases you only need like, 10-15 minuetes to burn it all out of there.

Ranger the original PCV valve is marked CV-892 and is spring loaded. The replacement part is # CV-892C or kit # 89017274. I have a 96 model and it is time to replace the PCV valve, o-rings, plastic top, and MAP seal. Hope all of this comes in the kit # 89017274.
When you take the oil filler cap off and look inside the valve cover there is a small pool of oil that sits directly under it. Does this oil look like there is any moisture in it?
Sure hope this is a cold weather high humidity problem and nothing serious.

Yes, I can see the pool of oil on the head when I look down through the filler. The oil looks fine just as it does when I change it. I just did an oil change the other day. Doing it again will accomplish nothing unless I change it every time it is driven. It just keeps coming back. I know it is not normal (to the best of my knowledge) but at the same time I'm not terribly concerened. It has been this way for years. At least earlier my coolant was slowly going down so I knew where it was coming from. After replacing the UIM it seems to be stable. Guess I'll have to keep a close watch on the coolant level. Maybe it is a very very very slow seepage. God I do not want to do that job again.

Actually considering what Ranger said, "it looks, smells and tastes like water, not coolant. " I would suggest he do the same, at least initially. Water is formed at the same rate as the gas is burned. Most of it makes its way out the exhaust pipe but some makes it into the engine as blowby and the PCV is in charge of removing this. The PCV works harder when cruising (as opposed to WOT or idle), thus the 'go for a cruise' suggestion. This is one reason they use 195* thermostats, use it for its intended purpose.

...darn those kids huh?

Where are these kids you are talking about?

I guess I missed them.. someone should point these things out to me next time.


-justin

come to think of it when my engine was condesating a week later the check engine light came on and the car ran rough. It turned out to be condensation in the gas tank.
A quality bottle of isapropal gas dryer did the trick.
If your motor is not drying out then your PCV must not be working properly
also.
Install a Delco PCV that was mentioned and change the oil.
Let us know.

I have checked the PCV and it is ok. Rattles like it should, moves freely and is not gummed up or anything like that. Just a little oily as would be expected. There is no sense in changing the oil as it gets condensation with every drive. Either I am missing something or the lower is leaking very slowly. That is the logical explaination but with the amount of condensate that I am seeing I would have to see a drop in coolant, which I am not.

I didn't see any coolant loss in mine either. But, as you can tell from the pictures, my filler neck looked like pure sludge. The issue has not come back, though. The longer trips, I think, are the key.

Longer trips aren't helping. As I have said, the blower motor is out in my car and I am waiting for it to be delivered so I can install it. In the mean time I'm driving my wifes Bonneville :50 minute trip to work. Still has condensation.