Compression test 30psi :( all cylinders... - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-26-2006, 12:37 PM   #11
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with 30 psi in all cyls, it wouldn't run at all. That isn't enough pressure to light off the mixture. I would guess that the gage is bad, or that you didn't spin it long enough for it to build up compression.

Try this,
remove ALL the plugs before doing the test. Hold the throttle wide open (allows more air into the cyl), usually 5 rotations will get it to max out, and it won't build more pressure after that. I typically go 8 rotations just to be sure, although if you watch your gage, after about 5 revolutions, it will max out and repeated revolutions will not give you any more pressure.

I bet this gives you better readings. If it really had 30 psi in all cyls, I can't imagine the thing would even drive.

give us an update
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Old 07-27-2006, 10:48 PM   #12
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goertz- Ya know that was the first thing I thought too when the gauge read 30.. I was all like no friggin way this thing is even runnin, but it does.

Test was done with all plugs out and throttle open, re-did it with another gauge, same results, checked gauges on another car, gauges read fine.

Car ran ok on test drive (although it was only 2 blocks) and then crapped out on the way home.

So it looks like I'm gonna be doin the heads now, which thankfully are pretty easy to get to.

List so far of parts -

Plugs, wires, fuel filter, ignition coil, air filter, cleaned maf sensor, alternator. (buddy took it to a shop before he let me mess with it and they get him for $200 for a ground wire and put 2 injectors in).

So after $1500 for the car and all that stuff and heads, its lookin like a $2000 vehicle, which still isnt too bad as its in great shape and loaded... gotta keep positive


Will keep ya guys updated, Thanks again!
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Old 07-27-2006, 11:10 PM   #13
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Quick question, when I call around lookin for some heads, what exactly should I be askin for... like 92 3.8 chevy L??
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Old 07-28-2006, 12:23 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaysik
Quick question, when I call around lookin for some heads, what exactly should I be askin for... like 92 3.8 chevy L??
I personally would be upgrading the valvetrain at this point....the 92-94 3800 Vin L OR Vin 1...but the 93-94 have the upgraded valvetrain so that is what i would do
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Old 07-30-2006, 06:32 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaysik
Quick question, when I call around lookin for some heads, what exactly should I be askin for... like 92 3.8 chevy L??
It'* a '92 Buick 3800 (just in case the parts counter people are too sloooow)

Suggestion. Before buying heads, locate a machine shop in your area, pull the heads off the motor, and let them take a look at them. They might be able to recondition the heads for less than buying remanf. heads.

Normally, I would go the junkyard route, but you may end up with heads that are only marginally better than what you have now in terms of wear and end up having to do this again in a year or two. Having the existing heads done over, or getting remanf ones will have new valve seals, freeze plugs, springs (if needed) etc... They will, for all intents and purposes be "new"

As to getting heads from another motor, beware of getting ones with the extra holes (top left of the intake manifold surface) used for PCV. I only mention that because a few of the parts companies are selling the heads with the same part numbers (but are listing it as "With Oil Drain Back Hole") The SSEi SC manifold uses those holes. The LN3 manifold does not and the flange doesn't cover them up...mix them up and you end up having the crankcase vented to the atmosphere.
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Old 07-30-2006, 01:20 PM   #16
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Does this car lack an EGR valve? If so, this isn't a surprise. Some 92'* didn't get one, and they suffer from burnt exhaust valves as a result.
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Old 07-30-2006, 01:44 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Does this car lack an EGR valve? If so, this isn't a surprise. Some 92'* didn't get one, and they suffer from burnt exhaust valves as a result.
I'm thinking the same thing. If its EGR-less, its probably exhaust valves.
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Old 07-30-2006, 05:38 PM   #18
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I have seen a series of the 91-92 3800 EGR'less, and the 89-93 3300 EGR'less burn a few exahust valves... The best bet is to pull the heads and have them done... My cost a couple hundred as the valves will most likely need to be replaced..

In all the years of seeing the 3800'* I have never seen a set of rings go bad or break as they did in some of the earlier FI 4.3'*... I have heard of 3800'* having almost 300k with a compression that was 5 psi up or down from cylinder to cylinder...

My friend has a 91 Park with the EGR'less 3800 and when his thermo started sticking I told him to use the 180F and he did... But he is at 155-160k and the car still runs great

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Old 07-30-2006, 09:49 PM   #19
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[quote="jr's3800"]I have seen a series of the 91-92 3800 EGR'less..../quote]

Thanks for posting that. I was scratching my head last weekend while junkyarding when I came across a early 90'* Buick LeSabre without an EGR valve or flange that I could find. Didn't know if that was normal or not and just figured I wasn't looking in the right places. That'll come in handy later (might go back and snag the rear manifold off that one for my '90 Bonnie.)
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