with 30 psi in all cyls, it wouldn't run at all. That isn't enough pressure to light off the mixture. I would guess that the gage is bad, or that you didn't spin it long enough for it to build up compression.

Try this,
remove ALL the plugs before doing the test. Hold the throttle wide open (allows more air into the cyl), usually 5 rotations will get it to max out, and it won't build more pressure after that. I typically go 8 rotations just to be sure, although if you watch your gage, after about 5 revolutions, it will max out and repeated revolutions will not give you any more pressure.

I bet this gives you better readings. If it really had 30 psi in all cyls, I can't imagine the thing would even drive.

give us an update

goertz- Ya know that was the first thing I thought too when the gauge read 30.. I was all like no friggin way this thing is even runnin, but it does.

Test was done with all plugs out and throttle open, re-did it with another gauge, same results, checked gauges on another car, gauges read fine.

Car ran ok on test drive (although it was only 2 blocks) and then crapped out on the way home.

So it looks like I'm gonna be doin the heads now, which thankfully are pretty easy to get to.

List so far of parts -

Plugs, wires, fuel filter, ignition coil, air filter, cleaned maf sensor, alternator. (buddy took it to a shop before he let me mess with it and they get him for $200 for a ground wire and put 2 injectors in).

So after $1500 for the car and all that stuff and heads, its lookin like a $2000 vehicle, which still isnt too bad as its in great shape and loaded... gotta keep positive


Will keep ya guys updated, Thanks again!

Quick question, when I call around lookin for some heads, what exactly should I be askin for... like 92 3.8 chevy L??

I personally would be upgrading the valvetrain at this point....the 92-94 3800 Vin L OR Vin 1...but the 93-94 have the upgraded valvetrain so that is what i would do

It'* a '92 Buick 3800 (just in case the parts counter people are too sloooow)

Suggestion. Before buying heads, locate a machine shop in your area, pull the heads off the motor, and let them take a look at them. They might be able to recondition the heads for less than buying remanf. heads.

Normally, I would go the junkyard route, but you may end up with heads that are only marginally better than what you have now in terms of wear and end up having to do this again in a year or two. Having the existing heads done over, or getting remanf ones will have new valve seals, freeze plugs, springs (if needed) etc... They will, for all intents and purposes be "new"

As to getting heads from another motor, beware of getting ones with the extra holes (top left of the intake manifold surface) used for PCV. I only mention that because a few of the parts companies are selling the heads with the same part numbers (but are listing it as "With Oil Drain Back Hole") The SSEi SC manifold uses those holes. The LN3 manifold does not and the flange doesn't cover them up...mix them up and you end up having the crankcase vented to the atmosphere.

Does this car lack an EGR valve? If so, this isn't a surprise. Some 92'* didn't get one, and they suffer from burnt exhaust valves as a result.

I'm thinking the same thing. If its EGR-less, its probably exhaust valves.

[quote="jr's3800"]I have seen a series of the 91-92 3800 EGR'less..../quote]

Thanks for posting that. I was scratching my head last weekend while junkyarding when I came across a early 90'* Buick LeSabre without an EGR valve or flange that I could find. Didn't know if that was normal or not and just figured I wasn't looking in the right places. That'll come in handy later (might go back and snag the rear manifold off that one for my '90 Bonnie.)