Tank problem is yes, I cannot get a reading of vacuum on the tank, when I check the tank seperatly so there is a breech somewhere in the tank.

And yes again, I would have to agree with you that my problem may be in the programmer. I will take a look and see if I can access it, if I can't I guess I may have to live with the way the doors are operating at this time.

Does anyone know where I can get a tank to purchase so I can replase the tank that is not holding vacuum?

Well I was able to find the panel and I found the purple hose going to it, I also found the other hose that control the doors but the amount of room for me to get under there is so small that I cannot continue with it. I am Claustrophobic and I get real sick........

You might have to recruit a buddy to help under the dash. maybe there is another member close by.

I can take a look at the one in my 97 donor car. That'* about the only thing left but it might be difficult to get at. It'* currently laying on it'* belly.

I do have another Idea about this, I bought the Chiltons manual and there is no wiring diagram for the 97, but I did check the 93 schematic and I notice there is a switch selector for the Havc. Do you think there is power going to the pods or the switch for the pods in anyway? I am hoping there may be a fuse that is blown?

What do you think???????

well I found what I may be looking for, There is a passenger side Fuse Block located near the HAVC programer that has a fuse #11 A/C Programer, I wonder what that controls!!!!!!!

The Driver side fuse box uses # 5A for Automatic A/C Control, Base Cluster, Cruise Control and # 5D is Base A/C.......

What do you think about the passenger side Fuse Block located near the HAVC programer that has a fuse #11 A/C Programer?????????????

I don't think you have an electrical problem at all. If the programmer fuse were blown or the ECC head couldn't communicate with the programmer, you would see this "---" on the display and you would not be able to adjust the air flow mode as you describe in your original post.

There could be an electrical problem within the programmer preventing the valves from opening but I would expect the temp to flash on the control head indicating a problem. They do have self-diagnostics.

My problem is solved.........................
First off let me say that this car has been my wife’* car since day 1 and I very rarely drove it so I am not aware of all the bells and whistles it has.

One or the other of my explanations solved it.

1: I fixed the vacuum leak at the faulty canister by bypassing it.

2:I was reading the manual looking for any bit of information and I came across the non climate control A/C controls and it stated that when the A/C is on DO NOT SELECT THE DASH VENTS, if selected it will turn the A/C compressor off and flow outside air in the car.... I thought that was strange....... I have climate control, can this be the same for it.... I read the climate control part of the manual and it never mentions to select the dash mounts and to select the AUTO mode, when selecting the auto mode the system automatically starts with the defroster and floor vents then after a short period of time it automatically selects the best way to cool the car down. Well I decided to try that technique and guess what, I have total air now.

I feel happy about it, just don't know what the fix was, me or the manual.....

Hmmm. Well, I'm glag you fixed the problem but as long as the AC icon is on, you can select any airflow using the Mode button and still have cold air. This was the specific reason I changed the ECC head and HVAC programmer in my 93 to the ones that came out of the 97.

That still doesn't explain why when the display showed that the air should be coming out of the dash vents it was actually coming out of the defrost vents.

COngrats on fixing the problem and thanks for detailing your troubleshooting steps as this could be very helpfull for other members[/quote]

In all my excitment I forgot to mention this and it realy shows what was fixed or how it was fixed.

I forgot to ad one more thing that you just reminded me, I can select the dash vents and air will come out from them, infact it is blowing out at a good force so I guess the correct fix was bypassing the leaky vacuum cannister and not the manual.

thanks for all your help and information on where to look for the problem points and pictures you uploaded.

Nick...glad to hear it'* working well. You may want to consider hitting a junkyard when you have time and getting a vac canister. Because the level of vacuum can get pretty low at wot and other times. This can cause your vents to act like they have a mind of their own and stop working..(basically it moves to default as if it was w/o vacuum) The canister maintains the vacuum level needed.