Climate Control unit is problem is SOLVED@@@@@ - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 06-10-2005, 01:06 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randman1
You're in luck. I just happen to have a complete 97 wiring harness in my basement. I found a Y connection for the vacuum line a little ways away from the grommet.

Looking at the passenger'* side grommet closer to the fender you'll see two groups of wires. One group has several large gauge red wires. The vacuum line is with the other group and looks more like a large gauge black wire rather than a rubber vacuum line. The Y connector is about 7-8" away from the grommet and you will need to remove a little tape or loom to see it. The connection has a rubber line that goes to the engine source, a nylon line that goes to the vacuum tank and another nylon line that goes to the firewall. This explains only one line connecting to the tank. Check that Y connector.

For the elbows and Y "soft" cnnectors, try the HELP! section at your local auto parts stores. You can usually find an assortment of vacuum connectors.
If it wasn't too dark out there I would check it out, Thanks again, I will post a follow up when I find this Y connector.
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Old 06-10-2005, 01:27 AM   #12
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Well I went out there anyways, I had more than enough light and here is what I found.
I had already looked at both sets of wires before and I had them unwrapped a few inches already. I just unwrapped the one you are talking about and I do not have a large gauge black wire in the group, I do have a large gauge PURPLE wire that is dead center but on the bottom row of wires, could this be what you mean?
I also removed at least 18" of tape and I found NO visual of a Y connector in this loom.
Dead in the water again.......
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Old 06-10-2005, 01:30 AM   #13
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I think the key here is, If the purple is the correct wire or tube and you can confirm that it is the one that is dead center and located on the bottom row then I will need to get further into the loom than the 18" I have already uncovered........
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Old 06-10-2005, 09:39 AM   #14
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I don't think you are looking at the right grommet/group of wires. There are two grommets located behind the passenger'* shock tower who'* wires form harnesses. The one that is closer to the fender we'll call the "body" harness as it contains wires that have to do with the body. The other we'll call the "engine" harness as it contains wires that have to do with the engine. There is a heavy gauge purple wire that goes to the starter but it is contained within the engine harness. Look at the other grommet.





This is the body harness grommet. Here you can see the two groups of wires that I described above as well as the vacuum Y connector. Actually, the Y connector is down the line about 4-5" rather than the 7-8" previously mentioned.
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Old 06-10-2005, 11:57 AM   #15
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OK, here is what I got, first you where correct, I was looking a the wrong loom......
I cannot get my hands down into the area where the Y connecter is but I realized I don't need to, because if I pull the hose apart at the check valve on the engine side I hooked my Vacuum checker and it held vacuum. I am hoping that means, going to both the cannister and firewall the line is OK and no cracks or leaks. This was also apparent when I pressureized that part of the system, I next got under the car to check the cannister and line, when I put my big hands on the line it snapped and I heard a quick hiss, which I am thinking was the pressure I put into it with the checker.

Checking from the check valve to the intake I get NO pressure build up the the checker, I am unsure if this test can be done into the intake, and yes I know I could start the engine and put my finger over the tube to see if there is any suction.

Will I be able to check the intake port this way?

Also I have attached a pic that I quickly did of what I am talking about.

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Old 06-10-2005, 10:52 PM   #16
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Well I went at it again tonight and I think I found the problem, not 100% sure, but it might be it. I was able to pick up some hoses and inline connecters and I started from scratch.

If I plug the line to the vacuum cannister at the cannister the line from the cannister to the Y then to the firewall will hold vacuum. The line from the intake to the Y is pulling vacuum.
If I plug my vacuum checker to the cannister directly with a short hose, NO way will I get a reading on my checker, so I am thinking that my cannister has died and gone to vacuum heaven unless someone here as another thought........
Does the or should I say, shouldn't the vacuum cannister hold vacuum if I initialize it with my checker?

What do you think?
Are these cans available anywhere?
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Old 06-10-2005, 11:08 PM   #17
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I like your trobleshooting techniques.

With the tank in it'* under-car position, it very well could have taken a rock across the chin and caused a breach. Truthfully, I've never dug this deep but I do have a thought. The vacuum reservoir'* job is to store vacuum pressure and supply it to the accessories when there is limited vacuum from the source. You could try to bypass the reservoir by substituting a straight connector directly to the firewall line rather than the Y connector. As long as there is vacuum present in the intake manifoldas there is when idling, you should be able to divert the air flow to the vents. This will isolate the reservoir and associated line(*). If air flow is restored to the vents then you have a problem at the tank, line going to the tank or the Y connector. if it still doesn't work then we might have to use that gauge of yours under the dash to determine if it'* the line leading to the programmer or the programmer itself.
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Old 06-11-2005, 12:08 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randman1
I like your trobleshooting techniques.
Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by randman1
You could try to bypass the reservoir by substituting a straight connector directly to the firewall line rather than the Y connector.
Do you think the line that attaches to the firewall connector would be easy or difficult to remove, I would hate to brake it, "the connector".
I have to tell you, I had a steady vacuum reading without any loss when I purged it with my checker at the check valve.
What I didn't like was the small amount of vacuum being pulled by the intake line, I will get my vacuum reading guage out in the morning and check how much vacuum the intake is pulling.
Does anyone know what this reading should be? 10" 12" 14" 16" 18" ????????
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Old 06-11-2005, 10:27 AM   #19
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This morning I went back out and did a little more checking.
I hooked a vacuum gauge at the check valve and measured the amount of vacuum the intake line was pulling, 15", that looks good.
Next I checked from behind the check valve, the line that goes to the cannister and firewall and I pulled 16" and let it sit for 10 minutes to see if the 16" would start dropping and it didn't, this looks good.
All I have left to do is figure out if the cannister aids the accesories in any way or it is used as a storage of vacuum once the engine is turned off so that the accesories have ample vacuum for a period of time.

Next will be the HAVC panel, if I can pull vacuum and hold it for 10 minutes I can safely say that to the first pod (I don't know the correct name for this) in the HAVC it is good and I need to check the other pods.

any suggestions???????????????????????????????
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Old 06-11-2005, 10:51 AM   #20
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That'* a good question on "what is normal" for the amount of vacuum. I can't find that info in the service manual and can only think of borrowing BillBost37'* gauge and checking both our cars. Our engines are different than yours and might normally be different but it might help.

Hmm. If you are holding vacuum pressure before and after the check valve, that would indicate that you DO NOT have a vacuum line or tank problem. It seems that the valves in the programmer might be suspect. Almost like they aren't opening properly. A leak in any line or connector would have caused the gauge to drop when it was between the intake source and check valve.
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