You can feel a razor blade better, No chance of really gouging the gasket surfaces. And I'm cheap.

I'm just hesitant to use all these products as a soak for even a shortish time because they're all corrosive to aluminum :?

Well, I have a 3.1L UIM that'* been in Chem-Dip for about two hours now. I see no problems with it. I know it says that on the can, But I think they mean more along the lines of a week long soak.

barrymans was originally made to use on carbs... made of aluminium. they have widened thier product line for applications on fuel injected engines. they also designed the b-12 to dry without leaving any residue or film. all I can stress is to remove all sensors, keep them away from any chemicals and make sure the TB is dry before rebuilding.

Swifty, off topic, I was using B-12 Chemtool before you were born. But only by a year.

The long and the short of it is that you can use anything you want as long as it doesn't leave a residue or film, and you remove all sensors.

It'* safer (which is why I wrote that Techinfo article the way I did) for people who don't know what all the options are, to state Sensor-safe.

Personally, I use sensor-safe TB cleaner. I even set my IAC upside-down and soak the spring/shaft for an hour, then flip it over to drain. After it'* dry, I flip it back and fill it up with 3-in-1 or Marvel and let it soak overnight. I drain it for an hour or two before installing. While IAC'* don't have a habit of failing on us, I like to think I'm extending it'* life. In fact, every TB I've had come through ZillaMotorsports that had an IAC got this treatment. The current owners of those parts probably don't know it.

Will I admire your attention to details. its guys like us that are going to keep bonnevilles alive for a very long time. I believe in going overboard as far as caring for my bonnie. when I do an oil change I will run marvel for about 20 minutes before I drain the oil.(loosens all sorts of gunk) and when the oil stops dripping I will run 3 quarts of valvoline thru it till it comes out clean from the drain plug. I use a pureone filter(the best multi pass filtration) and I use 5 quarts of royal purple 10w-40 and top off with lucas oil stabilizer. yeah it off topic but I just wanted to let you know I take pride in my work as well.

No, will'* 93. They only let him out of the nursing home to go to Bonneville events.

His age is why he drives such an old man'* car.

I ended up using Simple Green because I had no other choice :(

-soak in simple green for a while
-brush/scrub
-soak some more
-brush some more
-quick dunk
-hose parts off with a can of CRC throttle body cleaner
-brush/scrub
-quick dunk in the green
-another can of CRC
-more brushing
-quick dunk
-rinse the crap out of the parts in a slop sink
-throw parts in the dishwasher with dish soap

And that'* where I am now. Then I'll dry up any water and WD-40 to diplace any more water and then let the things air-dry.

I sure hope the dishwasher doesnt smell too much when I'm done

Simple Green smells nice enough to eat :o I resisted though.

I would not use wd-40 is it will be one more thing you will have to clean out of your tb if you need to use water just let it air dry wd-40 will just leave a film of crap inside and since it doesn't really dry, it will just trap more dirt and bring you back to square one.

I agree. Stay very far away from WD-40, even as a lubricant. It'* not. It evaporates quickly leaving a barely-lubricating film at best. It'* a water-displacer, hence the name. WD-40 is the most improperly-used 'stuff in a can' in the automotive world.

It would be my second choice next to dielectric grease for electrical connetions.