Pics always make life easier. But I'm about to walk over to my garage and start changing my belt right now. Also going to change my thermostate.

This might help. I did not know what thread to post in so at the bootom of the page:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=57285

OK, that'* done, took almost 2 hours. And part way threw I relized there is an easier way to do it then what I read in the other thread. I took a few pictures and will post what I did. Shoudl have taken about a half hour and the removal of one bolt. And perhaps loosening one other.

Ok, this is what I have, hope it helps save seomone a few headaches. This is on a 97 SSEi, other years may very.

Jack up the right side, remove right wheel and plastic cover inside wheel well. Use jack stands!

Not sure if you will need to use a jack on the engin because you will not remove the motor mount, but just to be safe, put a 2x4 on teh oil pan and lift gently

Using a torex socket, turn tensioner counterclockwise and remove belt.

Go under car and remove bolt from lower motor mount where it connects to engine.

Then with a torex socket remove the stud that you just removed the nut from. If you don't have a torex socket, use a 5/16 6 point socket.


View from wheel well

You might have to loosen the upper bolt.

There is a spacer between the motor mount assembly and the engine, it will take a bit of effort to work this out, some wires are in the way but it will come out.


Here is the stud and spacer.

The belt should now come out. I only replaced one belt, but it looks like both will come out this way.

Put new belt in car, replace spacer and stud. Tighten everything you loosened, put belt back on all pullies and tensioners, your done.



If there are any errors in this, please let me know and I will make corrections.

Thta won't work for the blower though?

That'* the belt I changed, and it worked very well. Just wish I had noticed that spacer before I did all the other stuff.

Sounds good. I'll defintely look into that

You will need a T45 torex (male) for your tensioner, and a T45 (female) to remove the stud. I didn't have the socket, so I used a 5/16 socket. It came out easy, the only socket I had in that size was a 1/4 drive. I was afraid I would wreck the socket, but it turned right out with little effort. I think you will spend more time removing the wheel and splash guard then anything else.

Here is a cool write-up with pics:

http://www.netcrafting.com/car_mx/ol...ntine_belt.htm

That'* one dirty engine.