changing spark plugs and oil for the first time. - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-11-2007, 02:10 AM   #1
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Default changing spark plugs and oil for the first time.

hi i am giving the 95 se a complete tune-up this weekend and i bought the spark plug sockek to fit my plugs andi want to no if there is any special way to take them out and put them in.. or any thing i should no about changing them.
also i want to change my oil and oil filter and this will be a first as well. can some one give me some advice in this and how to do it..
i will be doing also the air filter, o2 sensor ,the plugs, the wires, and brake pads.. i can do all this stuff but the oil change and spark plugs will be a first..

already on the car i put a new crank sensor, throttle position sensor, pcv valve.
iac valve, new remanufactured computer from the junk yard that had the gm reman stick date of 3/19/07.. how lucky is that.. i can take pics.. also a new bolt tensioner, a new remanufactured alternator (140 amp upgrade) , and tomorrow i will put a new water pump at the dealer
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Old 07-11-2007, 02:54 AM   #2
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for plugs its pretty straight forward tool wise.

1- Twist the plug wire boots first (part attached to the plug) to help keep from tearing the boots.
2- get good plugs (LOL, I use Bosch Platinum but others here dont like them much)

3- check the plug manufacturer to see if Gapping them is needed (check them when taking them out of their packages for closed tips)

4- when installing them careful not to hit the tip on anything hard so you dont mess up the gap

5- also dont get too carried away tightening them, read the box.

6- careful when using the socket, if it slips its possible to crack the insulator of the plug causing a misfire

7- check the wires too they are important if they are oily clean them or replace them with a good set (1 by 1 to keep from crossing them) I like Spiral Core wires (much less resistance)

Oil change
1- do it while the engine is warm (warm oil flows better than cold)

2- I fill the new oil filter with oil before I install it (it helps the engine from running dry a little more)

3- make sure the old oil filter gasket comes off with the old filter (sometimes they get stuck and 2 gaskets is sure to leak.

4- get a good filter (I used to buy really cheap ones but a good one is way better made)
I like WIX and Napa Gold for my car.

5- Oil is a preference thing. Back in the day they used to sell cheap and good oils. Now pretty much all of them are good. I think its more important to change around every 3K miles than what oil you use.
Some like synthetics but if you arent taking ur engine to the edge every day than any oil a retail store sells should be fine.

6- DONT FORGET to recycle the old oil. Most auto part places take it.l.

BE CAREFUL to support the car when you are under it. Have FUN
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Old 07-11-2007, 08:19 AM   #3
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Old 07-11-2007, 09:16 AM   #4
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This isn't a Performance topic. This is a general tuneup topic. I'll move it to 92-99 for you.
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Old 07-11-2007, 09:57 AM   #5
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When tightening the plugs. There is technically a torque specification that no one ever uses.

The general rule of thumb in our cars is to snug the plug using the ratchet, then gently give it a tad more. Not 1/4 turn..not 1/8..just a little.

Also..when you change plugs or wires, only remove one wire or one plug at a time and replace that one. hook it back up. While our motors are easy enough to tell when plug or wire was put on the wrong spot..why take the chance.
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Old 07-11-2007, 10:23 AM   #6
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On the 95 L36 you can get an AC Delco PF47 or equivalent, or a longer AC Delco PF52 or equivalent.. Either one of these will work...

Most oils are good... I like Mobil 1... But Havoline, Valvoline, Mobil...... Are all good... Its pretty much what ever floats your boat there..

Try the NGK TR55 plugs in both cars... I run them in both and have never been disappointed..

Good Luck

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Old 07-11-2007, 11:24 AM   #7
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And if you plan on doing the oil change on a timely and regular basis, you should consider replacing the oil pan'* drain plug, with a Fumoto valve.

On my wife'* '97 LeSabre, the valve has allowed me to change the oil without having to lift up the car [front end].

I've been using one on all of my cars for decades. It makes it considerably easier and definitely cleaner.
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Old 07-11-2007, 11:29 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke
And if you plan on doing the oil change on a timely and regular basis, you should consider replacing the oil pan'* drain plug, with a Fumoto valve.
just googled that.. I'm SOLD! thanks for the tip!
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Old 07-11-2007, 11:56 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harofreak00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke
And if you plan on doing the oil change on a timely and regular basis, you should consider replacing the oil pan'* drain plug, with a Fumoto valve.
just googled that.. I'm SOLD! thanks for the tip!
how far down does that stick below the oil pan that looks like it could hook alot of things
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Old 07-11-2007, 12:11 PM   #10
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[quote="Luke"]And if you plan on doing the oil change on a timely and regular basis, you should consider replacing the oil pan'* drain plug, with a Fumoto valve.

have you ever had a problem with it leaking any oil..? or what if something hits the valve while your driving and opens it and you loose all your oil with out noticing untill your engine starts knocking.. besides all that i looks real easy and great to have.
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