Changing spark plugs? Ack.. - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 01-07-2006, 07:46 PM   #11
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" I am totally in agreement with you there...

The reason why I think the 3800'* are some of the easiest V engines to change the plugs on.. Especially the C and H body FWD [/quote]



jr's3800, Sounds like you've done a few yourself. Like you, I almost enjoy the 3800'*.
Especially the series 1 cars.

On these motors, there are only a few jobs that require a little time and patience.
The rest is pretty easy.
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Old 01-07-2006, 11:17 PM   #12
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Default Hey I just did this

The front ones are fairly strait forward, and I didn't have to much of a problem with the back ones. Removing the strut bar is a great idea (one I didn't think of). I also found that it'* much easier to remove the back ones without an extension. There'* enough room to crank without the extension, and it'* alot easier to manuever just the socket and ratchet as opposed to socket, extension, and ratchet. Anyways hope that helps.

On a different note I agree that this engine is not that difficult to work on. Especially as noted by Giterdun when you compare it with say a LT1 engine. I can tell you from personal experience that if anyone asks you to help them change the plugs on their '94 Trans Am, say no. If you show up to help them change their plugs and discover they also have a brand new set of long tube headers, then I would suggest turning around and running. Anyways I'm done venting .
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Old 01-08-2006, 12:08 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Giterdun.
Well I will say that you haven't lived until you change plugs in these
cars : 1989-95 T-Bird Supercoupe
1994-97 Camaro,Firbird LT-1
1993-96 Lincoln Mk-8
There are many more examples of I could mention as well.
anything with the ford duratec engines.

and anything with the gm 2.8mpfi, 3.1mpfi, 3100, 3400 engines.

oh and the vortec v6 engines too, those are evil.
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Old 01-08-2006, 11:25 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Logan
Hop up on top of the motor...its the only way to work on it.
That'* exactly how I do it, too. Primarly kneal on the frame support bar in front of the radiator. I also remove the strut tower brace. It makes a HUGE difference with it off.
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Old 01-08-2006, 05:56 PM   #15
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I had to change the plugs on my 3800 II a while back, and I didn't think removing the strut tower brace was opitional. I just figured it was a must.

It is only a couple more minutes of work. It is easier than trying to work around it.
Is it even possible to work around that thing when doing back plugs?

And yep, sometimes you have to piece your ratchet/socket/extentions into place.

It is more a pain in the *** than complicated. You have to trace the wires to "braille" out where the plugs are, they are not really possible to see. And be REAL careful screwing the new ones in, don't force them with the ratchet until they hit bottom and ready for torquing.

HERE is something extra for who sees this -
The stupid heat shield for the spark plug wires, do those really need to be on there?
I didn't put them back on yet, and have been too lazy to do such. Only the back ones had the heat shields.
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Old 01-08-2006, 06:43 PM   #16
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With the strut bar removed I can pull the plugs and reinstall them in under 10 min. Super simple. It does help to be tall for the back ones.
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Old 01-08-2006, 09:03 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by impatient99
I had to change the plugs on my 3800 II a while back, and I didn't think removing the strut tower brace was opitional. I just figured it was a must.

It is only a couple more minutes of work. It is easier than trying to work around it.
Is it even possible to work around that thing when doing back plugs?
I could be wrong, but I think I have heard there is less room with the SII. On my L27, I don't think it would save any time to take the strut tower bar off. I can see the plugs in back from on top. The hardest part is remembering the angle which the plug goes in. When the old plugs are still in it is easy to see where the new ones will go, but when you take them out, you can't see where they are supposed to go. A bit of feeling around is necessary.

Definately optional. O2 sensor on the other hand...yes it optional, but it was NO FUN with it on.
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Old 01-09-2006, 06:40 PM   #18
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Hey, I'm a wimpy lil sh*t and I managed to change my plugs. Took off the STB, stood on a stool and went to town. Of course, I just about busted a knuckle...saw some blood and almost passed out....but my car runs just lovely now.
You can do it!!!!!
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Old 01-09-2006, 06:55 PM   #19
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I'm 5'10" and stand next to the car, and can change them with the STB in..

Honestly..it'* not hard.
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Old 01-09-2006, 06:58 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
I'm 5'10"
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