Changing rotors&brakes - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 01-10-2006, 03:04 PM   #1
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Default Changing rotors&brakes

Changing my brakes and rotors today, any tips suggestions?
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Old 01-10-2006, 03:40 PM   #2
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If at all possible, get a torque wrench for the reassembly.

And, don't let the calipers just hang by the brake lines. Get some short wires or something to hang thwm up with
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Old 01-10-2006, 03:52 PM   #3
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just curious why are you changing the rotors? did you get some high performance ones or something? because if theyre warped you can usually have them turned for about 10-15 bucks for both at most local auto parts stores...thats a heck of a lot cheaper than brand new rotors.
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Old 01-10-2006, 04:18 PM   #4
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Getting new ones because my other one(driver'* side front in particular) is F***ed, the pad was a lot lower than the mechanic told me... and before I knew it should have checked myself I was eating away the rotors with some good old metal grinding basically lol...
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Old 01-10-2006, 04:38 PM   #5
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Pull the bolts out of the calipers and the metal sleeve they go into. Clean both and apply anti seize or good caliper grease lightly to both.

Ensure the slides for the caliper are clean and apply a light coating to them as well.
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Old 01-10-2006, 05:35 PM   #6
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ANTILOCK brakes -

Instead of starting a new thread, i figured I would post this in this thread.

When servicing antilock brakes, is the procedure any different than regular brakes?

I have done antilocks on tow vehicles, and both times, 1/2 the system would fail a few weeks later.

Here is how I do it...
(car on jackstands, wheels and calipers off)

Remove master cylinder cap
Reseat the pistons using a C-clamp or caliper expander (bleeder screws closed.)
Place new pads into calipers.
Replace calipers, wheels...

Once car has the wheels on and on the ground, I start the car, push the brake pedal to the floor a few times until pressure builds, while checking brake fluid every couple pumps. Filling fluid as necessary.

I do not bleed the brakes if they feel firm after this procedure, and the bleeder screw was never loosened.

It works well on non antilock, what am i doing wrong that caused the antilock brake systems to fail?
One was a 1992 caddy Deville, the other was a 1994 Isuzu Rodeo.
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Old 01-10-2006, 07:45 PM   #7
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Didn't get around to doing it today... It was kind of cold and I didn't want to deal with it, I'm going to a heated garage tmw. What tools will I need, to do it and/or make it easier?
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Old 01-10-2006, 10:24 PM   #8
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Antilock is no different. It'* all the same and you won't need to touch anything that would be antilock. Be nice to the wires on the back of the brakes..those go to your wheel speed sensor.
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Old 01-10-2006, 10:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by impatient99

Remove master cylinder cap
Reseat the pistons using a C-clamp or caliper expander (bleeder screws closed.)
Place new pads into calipers.
Replace calipers, wheels...
I always open the caliper bleeder screw when forcing the piston back down into the bore. If you don't, and if has been a while since the fluid has been flushed, the dirty, cruddy, contaminated fluid that accumulates behind the piston and in the caliper is forced back up through the tiny passages in the master cylinder. This is one reason that many master cylinders fail shortly after pads and rotors are changed.

If you are careful to only open the bleeder after you have applied a LITTLE bit of pressure on the clamp, and you are careful to close the caliper bleeder screw as the piston bottoms in its bore, and BEFORE you release the C-clamp or caliper tool, you will not introduce air into the caliper requiring that the system be bled. You may want to cover the bleeder screw with a rag or use a tube from the bleeder to a container as it will squirt fluid when you open it under even a little pressure from the clamp.

Make sure to top up the master cylinder reservoir and don't let it empty whenever you open the system. If you do, you will introduce air.

Another cause of master cylinder failure is forcing the pedal to travel all the way to the floor when the cylinder is older and the pedal has not travelled so far in a long time. This can cause damage to the edges of the cup seals on the MC piston as they move over a part of the bore that may be corroded. It can also knock loose particles of rust that will abrade seals and clog passages. To avoid this, when you have installed your new pads and before you move the car, pump the brake pedal only about as far as it normally goes, then release and repeat until you have refilled the calipers with fluid and pushed the pistons out far enough that a relatively normal pedal is restored.
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Old 01-11-2006, 10:33 AM   #10
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I just figured i was doing something to cause pressure problems in the antilock system.
Typically, the brakes would fail a few weeks after servicing.

My car is close to needing brake service, and I was just making sure,

Good idea with not letting the pedal travel to the floor.
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