Changed: from Ex-Audi uprade to SSE owner to; Stalling - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 06-13-2007, 10:21 AM   #1
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Default Changed: from Ex-Audi uprade to SSE owner to; Stalling

Bi-turbo 2.7 was a pain in the... well you know. Well at least the SSE'* paid for.....

Now if I can get it started... Not sending signal to starter or fuel pump. Will changing the Ignition switch & getting new key programmed solve the problem?

popatim responds; "The key isn't programmed, its just a chip resistor embedded in the key. If your security light stays on then iits time to look into the key & cylinder; if its not on your problem is elsewhere. Possibly the solenoid, ignitions switch, or eec relay.

You can easily find the values posted on the net for the key resistances.(I'm not sure if we're allowed to post them here so I didn't). Measure the ohms across the pellet in the key; It should fall into one of the valid ranges: if not replace the key. Next disconnect the two wires comming down the streering column, typically white wire that may be in an orange sleeve, with the key in - backprobe the those wires going up the steering column and see if you get the same resistance reading as the key. If not replace the lock cylinder.

harofreak00 responds; "welcome, thats quite the upgrade

in addition to popatim'* information, you will find these topics helpful

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...highlight=vats

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...highlight=ohms


I responded; "Thanks popatim & harofreak00 for the valable information;

I'll try it in the next day or two & repost the results.

Okay; guys I forgot I had changed the ECM after the new starter didn't work. So I put the original one back on. Now it tries to crank then dies out but the battery is fully charged; same problem?



vital49 responds; Start a new thread in 92-99 in order to get maximum exposure with your mechanical issue.

We'll get you fixed up in that thread.

Well turned out to a bad battery cable ground on the end of the cable.

She'* running now; but keeps stalling- out from time to time, anyone got any ideas on this? HELP!!
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Old 06-13-2007, 10:25 AM   #2
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Ok..

Here'* the possible take on this issue.

VATS aka the security system isn't seeing the resistance value it expects from the key when you put in the new pcm.

The old puter is fooked up.

Take the new PCM and put the old PCM Eprom chip into it. Give that a try and report back.
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Old 06-13-2007, 10:50 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Ok..

Here'* the possible take on this issue.

VATS aka the security system isn't seeing the resistance value it expects from the key when you put in the new pcm.

The old puter is fooked up.

Take the new PCM and put the old PCM Eprom chip into it. Give that a try and report back.
BillBoost37, thanks for the reply. Couple of quick ones....

1. If the VAT is the issue would I still be able to drive her? It did make it from my Dad'* house to my house which is about 10 miles away, but almost stalled out a couple of times this time?

2. If I need to change the PCM Eprom; how do I go about doing it?
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Old 06-17-2007, 02:28 PM   #4
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Default Stalling

I replaced the negative battery cable post: the old one was about gone due to previous owner using pliers on it, added abottle of Chevron Techtron and WHOLLA! Hasn't stalled since and no warning lights on dash. So I returned the $123 worth of parts I thought she would need. Ended up spending $1.50 for the posts and $7 for the additive. I did end up keeping the serpentine belt since the old one is worn out, so basically I'm laughing all the way to the bank. Wow! even the A/C works.
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Old 06-17-2007, 02:31 PM   #5
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It was the cable. Not the additive. Fuel detergents and additives rarely need to be used on these cars.
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Old 07-12-2007, 02:31 AM   #6
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Default Re: Stalling

Well it started stalling out & sputtering again the very next day while turning and parking on a hill. Guess I spoke too soon.

No problems now after doing all the following:

1. Replaced Spark plugs & wires.

2. Clean coil pack housing.

3. Changed oil & filter.

4. Replaced #1 & #3 coil packs & clean housing.

5. Cleaned MAF sensor.

6. Replaced thermostat & coolant.

7. Changed fuel filter.

8. Changed fuel pump.

9. Replaced fuel tank.

Now I have front end work to get done; front inner/outer tire rods, both sides. And the biggest one is front left wheel bearing w/ABS $144 @ AUTOZONE; found them on Ebay for $50 plus shipping.
http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQf...Q5fPcNQ5fQ5fSI. Oh well at least the parts are much cheaper than her German siblings.
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Old 07-13-2007, 02:39 PM   #7
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Hey fellow Audi owner I too had extensive Audi experience in the past, driving part was FUN but the fixing was simply REDICULOUS and outragesly expensive. My last 97 Audi A8 4.2 Quattro topped them all. About $10,000 in past two years of ownership. And I only got to drive her 14 months, other time she spent in garage waiting for tranny . Biggest chunk was a new tranny @ $7400, after that I decided to let her go :( . Prices and availability of parts for Bonnie make me laugh. But I missed performance, tightness and fit & finish of my past german automobiles

As regard to your problem I dont know what to say, I'm too going through some problems. I picked up high mileage 92 SSEi for $800 and now dumping another $1000-1500 to make her trouble free. Had same rough idle and stalling problem (weird but it only stalled twice in two months of ownership). Replaced struts, spark plugs, spark plug wires, IAC valve, cleaned MAF sensor and TB, changed O2 sensor, fuel filter, air filter and finally camshaft position sensor. After that car seems to run better but far from perfect. If I get get from my SSEi another year or two, I'll be more than happy.
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Old 07-14-2007, 04:06 AM   #8
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Default Sputtering

WOW! Every Audi owner I've spoken to has had a similiar experience. But back to the Bonnie; I'd like to thank willwren for his post on broken baffles inthe fuel tank. See here:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=42104

My problem was not only broken baffles; but also rusted fuel lines & tank. It originally spent many wintery nights in upstate N.Y. (rock salt damage) I'm not going to tell how much I paid for the car; I might sell it on here one day, (probaby not) but it wasn't running when I took ownership.

With all that said; it seems to drive better & better everyday. I have noticed though it drives alot smoother with premium gas. Well next for me is wheel bearings I think I'll get them both out the way. Before investing that much change the fuel tank & Pump. Good luck!
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Old 07-14-2007, 11:59 AM   #9
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If you haven't yet - check all of your vacuum hoses and fittings. they start to crack after a time, and create a vacuum leak.
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Old 07-14-2007, 12:46 PM   #10
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Thanks, I forgot to mention that one. I found a couple under the air filter housing that was real bad, I replaced the rubber tubing on both.
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