Ceramic pads warping rotors?
06-18-2007, 09:10 AM
#12
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Yep, I thought they'd be around $60 so it wasn't too bad. I knew I needed good pads. And everything up front is brand new so it was a good investment.
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_...en/rep-ct3.jpg
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_...en/rep-ct3.jpg
Bendix CT-3 brake pads provide the optimum combination of ceramic technology and organic friction to virtually eliminate dust and noise. Offering smooth braking, fade-resistant performance and low rotor wear, Bendix CT-3 brake pads are equipped with angled chamfers and premium noise insulators. These thermally bonded insulators include a noise damping system with a silicone core affixed between two layers of galvanized steel. They are rubber coated and attached with a silicone adhesive to absorb more noise than conventional products. Bendix CT-3 brake pads are designed specifically for those customers who desire higher performance and first-rate aesthetics.
Features:
* Thermally bonded insulators with a five-layer noise damping system
* Advanced organic friction formula
* Angled chamfers improve contact profile and pad'* surface
Advantages:
* Smooth braking
* Fade-resistant performance
* Low rotor wear
Benefits:
* Less dust on wheels
* Ultra-quiet braking
* Greater customer satisfaction due to high performance
Features:
* Thermally bonded insulators with a five-layer noise damping system
* Advanced organic friction formula
* Angled chamfers improve contact profile and pad'* surface
Advantages:
* Smooth braking
* Fade-resistant performance
* Low rotor wear
Benefits:
* Less dust on wheels
* Ultra-quiet braking
* Greater customer satisfaction due to high performance
06-18-2007, 09:11 AM
#13
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
BTW Bonne94'* prices...I think include my discount.
06-18-2007, 09:29 AM
#14
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Originally Posted by bonnie94ssei
So that'* what you got them for too? Tracy got her Bendix rotors for $46 IIRC.
06-18-2007, 09:46 AM
#15
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You have to be ANAL about torquing the lugs.
Clean the stud threads and lugnut threads to get any corrosion or debris out of the threads. Apply a drop or two of oil to each threaded stud on the hub. Install the wheel, and then stage-torque them in a criss-cross pattern (or every other one clockwise) to 50, then 75, then 100 ft/lbs.
Make sure your hub face, both mounting surfaces of the rotor, and the back surface of the wheel are clean and free of corrosion. Anything in there can cause warping/uneven torque.
Clean the stud threads and lugnut threads to get any corrosion or debris out of the threads. Apply a drop or two of oil to each threaded stud on the hub. Install the wheel, and then stage-torque them in a criss-cross pattern (or every other one clockwise) to 50, then 75, then 100 ft/lbs.
Make sure your hub face, both mounting surfaces of the rotor, and the back surface of the wheel are clean and free of corrosion. Anything in there can cause warping/uneven torque.
06-18-2007, 09:50 AM
#16
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Let'* clarify that last statement a bit.
You don't have to be ANAL...lol (WillWren is and it'* understandable because he had many warped rotors). I am not and don't seem to have any issues. The most I do is look for anything that would cause a problem, then torque to 100ft lbs by starting with my air gun and finishing touches with the torque wrench.
Some find it necessary to torque in steps etc. This should only be needed if you are encountering problems.
You don't have to be ANAL...lol (WillWren is and it'* understandable because he had many warped rotors). I am not and don't seem to have any issues. The most I do is look for anything that would cause a problem, then torque to 100ft lbs by starting with my air gun and finishing touches with the torque wrench.
Some find it necessary to torque in steps etc. This should only be needed if you are encountering problems.
06-18-2007, 09:55 AM
#17
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Anyone warping rotors (including this topic author) should invest the extra 10 minutes to clean all those surfaces. It'* time well-spent to prevent having to buy new rotors every 6 months because you didn't fix the issues.
Generally, you cannot turn warped rotors. I tried that with my RSM'*, and it didn't work for long (2 weeks IIRC). HOWEVER, when my Powerslots warped, I caught it early enough, and had them turned. They've been fine for over a year, but I upgraded my rear brakes at the same time to take some of the load off the fronts. I had pad material left, but upgraded anyway, and made manual adjustments.
Generally, you cannot turn warped rotors. I tried that with my RSM'*, and it didn't work for long (2 weeks IIRC). HOWEVER, when my Powerslots warped, I caught it early enough, and had them turned. They've been fine for over a year, but I upgraded my rear brakes at the same time to take some of the load off the fronts. I had pad material left, but upgraded anyway, and made manual adjustments.
06-18-2007, 10:09 AM
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Bill, what did you do to 'upgrade' the rear brakes? i.e. Ceramic shoes...just new parts? Everything on my front end is new, but my rears are not, but have 50% pad life left. Everything seems adjusted, though I haven't touched them at all besides inspecting them. I'd like to make sure my rears are doing their part.
06-18-2007, 10:20 AM
#19
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Went to NAPA, got the best I could get. Heavy duty drums (dissipate heat quicker) and quality pads. Don't remember exactly what manufacturer.
Adjusted them manually to the point I could barely get the drums over the shoes. Readjusted 2 weeks later. Braking improved dramatically, in spite of still having shoe material left.
Probably need to adjust them one more time before WCBF. Never trust automatic adjusters (even though I replaced those also).
Adjusted them manually to the point I could barely get the drums over the shoes. Readjusted 2 weeks later. Braking improved dramatically, in spite of still having shoe material left.
Probably need to adjust them one more time before WCBF. Never trust automatic adjusters (even though I replaced those also).
06-18-2007, 10:47 AM
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Hmmm, didn't know they had better drums. I'll look into that. I know right now it'* not too hard to get the drums over the shoes. It'* tight, but probably not as tight as yours.