I had a problem with the key security on a 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme. It would usually start, but the light would stay on.

The few times it would not start, I was angry and called to get a ride home. But by the time that was all done, I tried again and the car started. After so many minutes the secutiry system will reset, but the light would stay on.

Once I used the spare key that was not worn out, I never had the problem again.

As for a Bonneville not starting. I have a 1999 Pontiac Bonneville SE, and it is in the shop now. It had a small leak in the intake plenum. I was told by two mechanics that as long as the coolant was not leaking large amounts, and I was not overheating, I should be fine. Just to watch the temp. Well, I only added a small amount of coolant every 4 or 5 months for about a year (for the period I've had the car) and the car never got above the 1/4 mark on the temp gauge.

But this last friday the car would not start! I drove it in the morning OK, but when I went to start it a few hours later I got one click and nothing else. Tried to jump it, nothing. Had it towed to one mechanic who replaced a starter which was under warranty, nothing. Checked a few things, my battery is good like I knew it was. The car shows power on the gauge when you turn the key, and so on. The local mechanic ended up calling the GM dealer who think the car is "Hydro Locked".

I'm not sure what the total will be yet, as the GM dealer is closed over the weekend, and has yet to touch the car.

Here is a post I found on the net about hydrolock.

"Plastic manifold cracks around (very poorly designed placement) Engine swallows enough coolant after a hot run, owner comes out the next morning to an engine that will not crank. Customer is handy, put a new battery and new starter motor in to no avail.

Traditional diagnosis AT ANOTHER SHOP, pulled spark plugs and decided it was a head gasket after performing a pressure test (this would be a correct diagnosis in my view but I was suspicious).

Customer was adamant about not overheating this engine ever! He calls me up since now he has no car since October but has been making the payments on it anyway. I try to confirm diagnosis and my pressure test has a lot of air hissing from throttle body which prompts me to remove the throttle body and discover this engineering nightmare. This is like a $600 job if you catch it in time but since the car sat, the engine is now rusted and frozen solid.

I am waiting for warranty consideration after personally talking for the customer with GMAC. Of course they are giving me a bunch of bologna about this whole manifold thing but she will need a new engine if the car is to ever run again.

Every one of these engines should be recalled and the manifold should be replaced because there is no reason on a 3-year-old car that customers should be having a blow up like this. I frowned when I first saw these plastic silly putty parts and now I know my instinct was right".

On the starting issue.. starting with a screwdriver and then no running out of fuel after a few seconds is VATS related. You mentioned a resistor being put in place. Ensure it is the correct value for your car as there are 16 possible values and it needs to be w/in 5%-10%.

Vanalan - Please start a thread of your own and read the sticky at the top of this page about what all L36 owners should know. Your mechanic does not sound very familiar with the 3800 motor and should have replaced the intake manifold and gaskets immediately when he saw that coolant. This is a well documented issue that all mechanics should be aware of. As mentioned...please start a new thread of your own as this has nothing to do with the VATS issue in this post. Thanks

I think I'm to much of the old school, I haven't kept up with new technology. This thread is going over my head......Thanks for the Tech section.

Frank..please post questions if you don't understand parts ot this because there are others that probably don't understand the same things and it is helpful to everyone for us to spell some of these things out.

I've been here too long and tend to abbreviate etc.

You guys are simply to good to be true..

Well went and got the new keys resistance and also the old key and they both measured the same. The resistor is the same resistance and it is still not starting. When I turn the key no crank or nothing the security light flashes but as soon as I turn the key to off the light goes off It does not stay on for 3 minutes. Please tell me what can I try next well not me my son-in-law lol

It may be that the by-pass resistor(*) is installed wrong, there is open on the way to the VATS madule, or the VATS is bad.

Could you have son-in-law verify that the resistor is installed correctly?

The two wires need to be cut near the bottom of the steering column and the resistor(*) installed across the two that head down the steering column and up into the dash above the brake pedal. The two wires heading up back the column to the key can be taped off; they will not be connected to anything. Measure the resistance acorss the resistors and be sure they are really close to what you measured across the key.

Thank you! Thank you! You guys are the bomb! It worked woohoo! I'm a happy girl. I just want to thank you so, so much for your excellent help. If I ever have any problems with Bonnie again this is the very first place I will try. Again thank you.

Hope, Glad to hear you resolved the problem. What was the fix ultimately?

My son-in-law did not put the resistor right. So he went back and did it exactly like you said and it started right up. He said he learned something new too lol