Car has been starting good until today. Went to my friends then when I was ready to go home the car would not start. When I turned the key nothing happened the lights and everything is working, the battery is good, but I do remember a couple days ago it did the same thing and I giggled the Anti-Theft thing and it started up but today not even that worked. I don't know anything about working on cars but my son-in-law does. If anyone could help me with this problem I would really appreciate any help you could give.

Hope, Can you be more explicit? What is the Anti-Theft thing that you giggled? Welcome to BC also.

Search on VATS for even more information.

Basically it works off a resistor in your key. (the little black area with the metal contacts on each side) This is read inside the ignition cylinder and allows the car to be started.

Try cleaning that pellet in your key with rubbing alcohol. Frequently that clears up any corrosion causing a bad value to be read.

Worse case senario is to install a resistor under the dash to bypass the system.

Ok I went and got a new key made, cleaned the contacts inside ignition, got resistor to bypass system and it will not start. When I turn the key to on the security light flashes and it turns off when I turn the key to the off position. It will not crank or turn over only makes a clicking sound and that is it. Please tell me what can I do next.

Still don't know what was jiggled. Anyway, I think we should back up a little bit here. The clicking sound is peculiar. Let us just assume for a minute that VATS is not the problem. Have you checked battery cables both positive & negative for tightness & cleanliness. Check both ends of both cables at the battery posts & starter end, and the main ground connection to the chassis. Just a few ideas, even if not the problem, it'* good preventive maintenance.

Yes my son-in-law cleaned the battery posts, checked the battery, checked the starter, etc. The clicking sound I am talking about is when I turn the key to start it clicks once but it does not crank or turn over.

When my VATS contacts act up, I can't remember any click when I turn to Start and the VATS is keeping the starter from being engaged.

The fact that it clicks sounds like it might be low voltage at the starter so the solenoid is not engaging. My starter just died a couple weeks ago and it occasionally made a click but didn't engage and rotate the motor. It'* a 98 and probably a different design than a 92'* starter.

Doesn't sound quit right for VATS problem.

If I recall the security light stays on solid when I turned the key and the wrong resistance was read. It won't turn off VATS for 3 minutes after you try to start 3 times with the wrong resistance.

Clicking would usually be a sign that the battery is not up to full charge or there is a poor connection that is not supplying the full power to the car.

Check for volts and amps at the starter on the positive battery wire after checking at the battery. If low at the battery, charge at about a 2amp charge overnight.

Procedure actually says about 24 hours at 2amps.

Is it possible that the clicking sound is the fuel pump going through it'* 5 second cycle. And is it possible that it could be the safety nuetral switch? In other words, what would happen if you kept the key in the start position and moved the shifter **** past neutral and shoved it back into park?

My son-in-law said that with a screwdriver the starter starts but turns off right away he said it seems like no power is going to the module. He also said the battery is fully charged.