1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Car will not run, turns over and fires, will run if primed.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 27, 2005 | 01:04 AM
  #11  
Hans's Avatar
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 7,545
Likes: 1
From: Twin Falls, Idaho
Hans is on a distinguished road
Default

On an oldsmobile 88 (l27) forum someone had the EXACT same issue and it WAS the fpr.
Reply
Old Jan 27, 2005 | 01:21 AM
  #12  
thirty6's Avatar
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Folsom California
thirty6 is on a distinguished road
Default

Re: "I probed the wire terminals of the fuel injectors, while plugged into the injector, with a test light and found that both terminals showed voltage. Should I be getting voltage at both wires on the fuel injector with the key in the on position?"

Each injector has a pink wire and, of course, another wire. The pink wire should have a constant +12V, the 'other' wire should show 0V with the key on. With the engine cranking/running the PCM switchs the 'other' wire to ground in order to fire an injector. If you probe the pink wire from any injector, with the key on, and connect the other test light wire to ground, it should burn steady. All 6 pink wires are common, so if one burns, they should all be OK, barring an open circuit near or on the engine. Its my guess that the reason you show voltage on both wires is you may have checked the voltage with the test lamp hooked up, which, in effect, makes both wires common.
The simplest test of all is to simply crank the engine with a test lamp hooked up. If it blinks during cranking, the injectors are probably working OK. Of course, to be absolutly positive you would have to perform the check on all 6.
As far as replacing the FPR, I doubt if that is going to solve your problem since you indicated that you have good pressure during cranking.
Reply
Old Jan 27, 2005 | 01:33 AM
  #13  
BonneMeMN's Avatar
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 15,928
Likes: 1
BonneMeMN is on a distinguished road
Default

Fuel filter relatively new?
Reply
Old Jan 27, 2005 | 03:12 AM
  #14  
LakevilleSSEi's Avatar
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 9,130
Likes: 0
From: Farmington, Minnesota =MWBF '05 SURVIVOR= =CEBF '06 SURVIVOR= =August '06 COTM=
LakevilleSSEi is on a distinguished road
Default

Not gonna rule out a pump, but when you don't bypass anything and turn the key on, do you hear the fuel pump cycle up[??? Pumps can go bad by just sitting unused. Seen it before. If that all checks out then try a regulator, i'm FINALLY buying mine tommorow.
Reply
Old Jan 27, 2005 | 11:15 AM
  #15  
bill buttermore's Avatar
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,066
Likes: 10
From: Ames, Iowa
bill buttermore is on a distinguished road
Default

I'm thinkin' Mos95b and Ranger are on the right track. The first thing I'd look at is the fuel pump relay, because it should energize the pump when the key is turned to the "on" position for a couple of seconds. If that doesn't happen, the relay or the relay circuit may be the problem. Plus, you can check it pretty easily and it'* cheaper than the FPR or the pump.
Reply
Old Jan 27, 2005 | 11:24 AM
  #16  
bill buttermore's Avatar
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,066
Likes: 10
From: Ames, Iowa
bill buttermore is on a distinguished road
Default

Oh, the fuel pump relay is located behind the passenger'* side kick panel in a relay center. Its location should be marked on the cover. If you jump terminals 1 and 4 and the pump runs for 2 seconds when the key is turned on, but not when the relay is plugged in, a bad relay is indicated.
Reply
Old Jan 27, 2005 | 12:59 PM
  #17  
mkaake's Avatar
Senior Member
Posts like a Camaro
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,166
Likes: 1
mkaake is on a distinguished road
Default

me still thinks FPR... for a few reasons.
1. pressure drops after cranking <- doesn't get too much more clear than that
2. pressure builds when primed <- how will the fuel pump prime if it'* not working?

when you hook up a pressure gage, and you find that your pressure is not staying constant, I'd first look at the... pressure regulator...
Reply
Old Jan 27, 2005 | 02:17 PM
  #18  
ckbell13's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
ckbell13 is on a distinguished road
Default

I checked the pump, and fuel pressure regulator. Everything is good with these, but I found that my injectors aren't spraying fuel at all . In the process of checking the fuel pump relay I found the cars main CPU with the 3 plugs and another smaller aluminum box with only one plug on it, that is velcro'd in next too the main cpu. What brought my attention to the smaller box is that I noticed a "low" buzzing or hissing noise coming from it when the key is in the "on" position. Is this what controls the multi port fuel injection, and maybe my problem ? Anyone know what this smaller box is called? It has a "service number" of 1228874, as well as 2 other numbers starting and ending with "*" , and another number of 16081221 on the bar coded tags.
Reply
Old Jan 27, 2005 | 02:27 PM
  #19  
ckbell13's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
ckbell13 is on a distinguished road
Default

I did a little research and found the smaller box is the chassis brain box for the air bags and not related. Still wondering why my injectors won't spray?
Reply
Old Jan 27, 2005 | 02:52 PM
  #20  
ckbell13's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
ckbell13 is on a distinguished road
Default

I really appreciate all of your help with my car. I have used other forums before and I am just amazed at how many replies I have gotten. I think I found my problem and if it proves me correct or incorrect, I'll let you know the outcome. I was putting the air bag controller back in and couldn't help but notice a strong "burnt electrical" smell . So I disconnected the main cpu and took off the screws to the access cover, which was pretty beat up from the previous owner, and found that some large flat round thing (sorry, not too familiar with electronics) had exploded inside on the main circuit board. As soon as I track one down I will let you know the outcome.
Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:25 AM.