OK, Today I put in new plugs and new wires. Now we're cookin! Was harder than I thought it would be, er... I mean took longer than I thought it would.

Thanks for the tips!! Lets hope that was the problem. It definitely was a problem, those old plugs looked bad, and I think the wires were O.G.

I also managed pull that stinky *** carpet... yikes.

Keep it up, things get easier. I can change plugs in about 20 minutes.

Regular copper-core spark plugs last about 36,000 miles. Only platinum or iridium plugs will last up to 100,000 miles, and that'* an optimistic measurement (and I'd trust the manufacturer instead).

Now, did you save and number your plugs? It'* always a good idea to do an autopsy on your plugs to determine how your car is running.

I thought about keeping the plugs, numbering, etc. But they were pretty much identical condition wise - electrode down to the nubs, 'filament' sort of whitish-- so I just took a pic and tossed them.

The LSS stalled on me twice today (3/7) on a 1.5 mile round trip.

Both times, the bells sounded, and at least 3 lights (maybe 4?) on the upper left hand side of the dash lit up, I recall 'Low Oil Pressure' as one of them. I did not want to sit and study, since I was in traffic, and I'm not familiar with the all the lights yet. The temp gauge looked OK (around 180º). I have all new new wires and plugs, properly gapped (.060).

Both times it stalled I was able to quickly restart the car in neutral while still rolling. The radio/electrical never cut out. What gives??!!!

I'm guessing the oil light is coming on because it stalled, and not that it stalled because of the oil pressure. A bad crank position sensor could cause you to stall.

Dan, I checked out your thread/article on changing the crank sensor, looks kinda involved.

I have a breaker bar and a 1/2" socket but not an air/impact wrench. Is there any way to rule a problem with the crank sensor in or out before attempting this operation?

I had another stall yesterday, and I believe you are correct- the stall causes the lights. The lights were battery, low oil & temp, all of which are OK. I was able to restart on the roll in neutral, radio, etc, never skipped a beat. A few more questions:

a) Will a code scan indicate whether the crank sensor is indeed the problem?
b) Is it possible a corroded/dirty fuse buss at the door sill cause this-- or would all of the electronics have cut out if this was the case?
c) Any estimate on how long / how bad things could get driving with this situation - i.e. is this a 'liveable' condition for the short term? Right now it is really just an annoyance, I'm not freaked when it happens.

Just to add some info for you. I have had this problem twice now with the crannk shaft position sensor. Its driveable for a while u will get stalls as you have already seen. However, it got to the point where it would stall out and it could be up to an hor before i would get it to restart. I would take care of it ASAP

Thanks for your insight. How were you able to determine it was the CSPS for sure? Did a diagnostic test indicate it? I just don't want to go tearing into the car if I can somehow rule it out... Also, any idea on what a shop might charge for this job?