UPDATE:

I can squeeze the hose with the cap on and the motor up to temp......

I replaced the cap and no luck on that aspect. What could this be? A bad water pump? I am not leaking coolant. I clogged radiator? I ran the car with the cap off the radiator and there was no movment of coolant, also the coolant was all the way to the top of the overflow neck......

Any ideas guys?? :(

So, with the motor up to temp, you could sqeeze the upper rad hose and it wasn't pressurized with the cap on? It wasn't hot?

Have you loked closely at your water pump while running? Is the pulley spinning fine with no noise?

With the engine off and the car up, is there any evidence of coolant running out of the weep holes in the water pump nose?

With the motor up to temp, I could squeeze the hose yes, it WAS hot tho and the cap was on.......

There seems to be no noise from the water pump, the pulley is tight (not wobbling) and there is no bearing whine, i thought this was the case a few weeks ago, but it turned out to be the AC comp. bearing......

When I did my AC compressor bearing last week, I was in the wheel well and noticed no signs of leak, I actually made it a point to look........

If you do not notice any coolant circulation with the cap off and the engine running, you have a circulation problem. I had a similar problem a few years back, with the impeller on my water pump spinning on the shaft. The same symptoms, running hot and no circulation. The impeller is only a press fit and sometimes, not that tight when new. I removed the water pump for inspection and the impeller appeared to be tight on the shaft when trying to turn it by hand. I then decided to put the whole pump in hot water (212 deg.) for a few min to see if that had any effect on the impeller. Sure enough, the impeller was loose enough to spin on the shaft by hand.
My first thought was to use a tack weld, but was afraid the heat on the thin metal may warp the impeller. I then decided to use JB Weld. I coated the shaft and impeller with JB Weld, let it set 24 hours and reinstalled the water pump.
That was two years ago, and no problems since.

You may wonder, why I would go to all that trouble, when a new pump only cost about 35 bucks. Well, the pump was only two weeks old and I thought if it had a flaw like that, than another new one may have the same flaw! In addition, it was the challenge of “fixing it myself” permanently. I will admit, this is a very rare occurrence and the first time it has ever happened to me. I have witnessed only about (4) water pumps, in the past ten years that had the same problem. Rare, but it does happen!

hmm, I am thinking possible radiator clog.

when the engine is at fill operating temp, on the passenger side of the radiator (the side without the fan & on the engine side) run your hand lightly from top to bottom over the cooling fins. Feel for any cool spots. Cooler ducts would mean that it is clogged in that area. If the rad is hot top to bottom, then go with the other'* suggestions and look at the water pump.

OTHERWISE, maybe your coolant'* life has expired and its time for a coolant flush?
I know this is EXACTLY what my car used to do. It would actually sit at about the 3/4 point of the gage...and so I was like..woah there. So I went, got a new radiator and did a very through coolant flush and now she runs cool as a cucumber, only gettin up to half when I'm sitting in traffic. Because like boost said, large 6 cyl engines like these at low water pump speeds in gear will certainly get the head a risin!

Good Luck!

The radiator is warm all over, the coolant is new as of 2 weeks ago, I guess i wll go ahead and put a new water pump in, they are only 35 bucks. :? Anyone have some good advise on this, i have never done one before........

Yes, I do..

I was running warm and couldn't figure it out like yourself. So one night before a big meet at my house I ripped into the car, changing waterpump and a squeaky alternator.

No change in temps. (talk about being pissed afterwards). I ended up swapping the radiator when 1993 SLE got a parts car.. Before installing I flushed that thing 18 different ways with full pressure hosing. Tons of stuff came out and my car has been cooler since.

Also to be noted is I had run water through my original rad to clean any dirt out of it etc, flushed it etc.. and it seemed good. When I pulled it.. there was more dirt in the fins and flushing the inside yielded even more gunk that was apparently built up and not moving until the rad was moved around and tilted in every direction with water running through flushing it. Then the rad was er uh..dropped in the garage while leaning against the wall... OMG more dirt came out.

Might be good if you simply removed and flushed your rad out of the car.

Wow!

So there'* a likely chance that we all have quite a bit of build-up in there. It'* a good thing to know.

And...let'* not forget..

The condensor is in front of the rad and other leaves and crap can sit between the two, completely ouf of our view.

So I should pull the rad. before I go to the trouble of a water pump??