Car is running at 210-220 even after a new water pump - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 04-27-2006, 01:07 PM   #1
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Default Car is running at 210-220 even after a new water pump

My water pump seized on me last week, I got a new one from autozone and installed it with new coolant, got all the air out of system etc. Now when I'm stuck in traffic the temp creeps up to 1 bar past 200 mark. is this fine? It never went this far before. Should I try a 180 thermostat? or should I not worry about it?

on a side not my oil pressure goes down to 20psi now at a stop light then shoots up to 60 when driving. it never went down past 30 before, which oil would be best for me? thicker or thinner?
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Old 04-27-2006, 02:05 PM   #2
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i'm interested on this water pump thing. Mine did/does the same thing.
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Old 04-27-2006, 02:05 PM   #3
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Couple relative questions here..

How long did the car run after the waterpump quit and how hot did it end up getting?

Fans come on at 215 and 225ish on the car, therefore 210 isn't a problem sitting in traffic. A week ago you did that...you may still have an air pocket.....try jacking the front of the car up to release the air pocket.

20lbs of oil pressure...when was the last oil change in time and miles please.
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Old 04-27-2006, 02:10 PM   #4
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It took me about a week to finally get all the air out..
try and bleed it again like biil said.
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Old 04-27-2006, 02:41 PM   #5
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Allow me to mention something....(laugh all you want)

I did a waterpump and then went through 10-15 thermostats. (thought I was amidst a bad batch) That'* how bad the air pockets can be. Anytime you drain the coolant to that low of a level, you can possibly get a little air bound like I believe you are.
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Old 04-27-2006, 02:43 PM   #6
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I can't stress it enough...raising the front end on ramps or something helps a LOT when bleeding the air out of the coolant.
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Old 04-27-2006, 03:36 PM   #7
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I drove like 2 blocks when the pump seized, temp did not reach danger zone not even close, car was not even warmed up when this happened. It never went past 200 before the pump went bad, well it did once in a while on the highway. I bled the system 2x already. I have done waterpumps on many cars so I know how to get the air out.

like I said I might try a 180 thermostat if you guys say factory fans kick in at 215 degrees than that is where it stays most of the time. I figured it was 190. I will run a bottle of watter wetter in it as well.

Oil was changed at a honda dealership last in late Jan car only driven 2k since then. I bought the car from a honda dealer lot.

What oil and filter should I run.
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Old 04-27-2006, 03:56 PM   #8
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You may have bled many a car. Every so often one fights harder than it should. Smack it on the back and burp it like a baby. Either that or (very unlikely) something went in and clogged a water jacket passage when you swapped the pump.

Oil is 10W-30W.. I like Mobil 1 with an AC Delco PF47 filter. That'* me though. I'd swap the oil out before worrying about the pressure too badly.
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Old 04-27-2006, 11:43 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatboyq
I bled the system 2x already. I have done waterpumps on many cars so I know how to get the air out.

What oil and filter should I run.
Can you tell us what you did when bleeding? Heater on? Car at operating temp? I'd just cover that, as it'* free and easy to correct IF that'* the problem. If not, move on.

Use your choice of 10W30. As for filters, I like the AC Delco or a Wix, personally. Even a WalMart SuperTech, made by Purolator, is a pretty good filter. Especially for 2 bux.
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Old 04-27-2006, 11:43 PM   #10
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I had the engine swapped out on my 97 and after that the water temp went f*%$#*& nuts along with oil preassure gauge. The water temp sensor was replaced and both acted normal again.

Just a thought
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