My mom has a 1995 bonneville and its been a very good car so far. But, about a month ago she was going down the road and the car just died. When she pulled over and tried to start it again it started just fine. However, over time it got worse, it would take 7 or more times just to get the car going then after that it was fine. So my dad and I hooked up a trouble code reader to it but it read no trouble codes, then we checked the fuel filter and it was fine, so next we checked the O2 sensor it needed changing but it didn't change what the car was doing. Then we did a fuel pressure test and when the car dies the pressure drops to 0. So we were figuring it was the fuel pump or the relay. But we changed the pump a year ago. So my question is where is the fuel pump relay and how do you use the fuel pump tester behind the battery? And if you think it is something else by all means suggest it. I have 1 week left to fix this car before school starts and i'm at a dead end.

I don't think that your problem is really fuel related....I'm thinking it'* a crank sensor. They don't throw codes, over time get worse, and takes about 6 times to get the car refired correctly, and will run for a while longer before stalling out again.

Somebody will have to chime in with an FSM to get you the location of the Fuel Pump Relay. But that really doens't sound like the culprit to me.

I agree with the Crank Sensor being the problem

Well sadly it wasn't the problem. Got the part put it in and started it up and it sounded good. Then, I thought my god its fixed! Then it died......... Put into gear and it died again. Then we checked the Idle air control value on top of the TPS and it was all greasy and dirty. So we cleaned it out started it up and it stayed running. Thought we fixed it but nope. My mom went out there said was doing the same thing..... So I'm back to ask any more suggestions? Cause I'm blank and so is my dad.. :?

I think that you want to see no voltage from that test wire, and if the realys bad you'll se 12 volts...or something like that.

Not positive.

Let me get reinforcements in here.

How long does the car start and run before dying. And when it dies does it sound like it'* being restricted by exhaust?

The bad O2 may have killed the catalytic and caused it to clog.

That'* pretty close but I'll give a little more detail.

The test pin is connected to the normally closed contact of the fuel pump relay and can be used 2 different ways:

+12v can be applied to the test pin via a fused jumper from the battery with the ignition off. This will turn the fuel pump on and should be used in conjunction with a fuel pressure meter to verify adequate fuel pressure.

OR

A test light can be connected to the test pin to verify that the relay is at least switching from the normally closed position. Not as accurate as testing the realy-to-tank wire (should be gray) at the tank connector or under the back seat. With the test light connected to the test pin, it will light up when the fuel pump relay is NOT energized and turn off when the relay is energized. Just like Lakeville has stated.

A crank sensor won't kill a running engine. It will default to limp mode, but not die.

Look elsewhere for the problem, like all the battery cable connections. Each end of each wire.

Sometimes it will run for a minute sometimes it will die right away and after all that it will run fine after 10 or more restarts.

The O2 was getting bad but not enough for it to clog because the engine still runs at high speeds.

Will check the fuel pump tester and see what happens.

An O2 sensor won't cause the car to die either.

Fuel pressure won't just intermittently drop off.

Please check your battery connections as I stated earlier.