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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

View Poll Results: torch the compressor???
torch it 0 0%
dont torch it :( 3 100.00%
Voters: 3. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 08-19-2005, 06:50 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwikoff99
Uh, is freon flammable?

Just unscrew the lines. Why cut them?
I rather not find out if there flammable or not with me next to it
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Old 08-19-2005, 08:09 PM   #12
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Freon is not flammable, but propane is. And believe it or not propane has awesome refrigerant properties. However, one day, a very smart person figured out that propane is a lot cheaper than R-12 or R-134.....Smart guy puts 2 + 2 together but leaves out the other equation, Pain=fire × explosion ÷ death.

So you really should not use a torch on a/c lines…ever. You never know what the previous owner or previous owners mechanic may have put in there. It’* not likely to have propane in it, but it has been done is all I’m saying.

You could easily disconnect the lines from the pump or at there nearest fittings away from the pump.
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Old 08-19-2005, 09:05 PM   #13
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Okay, let'* take a step back here...

You're trying to disconnect the compressor from the block. You can't reach one or more of the bolts that hold the compressor to the block because one or more of the A/C lines are in the way. Do I have that part right?

Is it possible to just plow ahead, release the motor mounts and lift the engine at least partway out, to get a better angle on the compressor mounting bolts that way?

-- Andy
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Old 08-20-2005, 01:54 AM   #14
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I've gotten the block to move it just that whereever I move it its still in the way. Other than that the engine is pretty much free except for the exaust which is a whole nother problem in its self.
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Old 08-20-2005, 01:33 PM   #15
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Have you by chance removed the Fans and the radiator to give yourself more room to work?

Also are the lines in the way of the bolts that hold the compressor to the compressor bracket?

We easily removed the compressor from an L27 in a matter of minutes... But, there was no refrigerant in the system as the compressor took a major dump, so were were able to remove the lines( one bolt ) from the back of the compressor, then we took out the bolts from the front ( rear facing ) and dropped the compressor...

In the least the Fans and radiator would come out to avoid unwanted damage..

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Old 08-22-2005, 12:10 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Have you by chance removed the Fans and the radiator to give yourself more room to work?

Also are the lines in the way of the bolts that hold the compressor to the compressor bracket?

We easily removed the compressor from an L27 in a matter of minutes... But, there was no refrigerant in the system as the compressor took a major dump, so were were able to remove the lines( one bolt ) from the back of the compressor, then we took out the bolts from the front ( rear facing ) and dropped the compressor...

In the least the Fans and radiator would come out to avoid unwanted damage..
Its the compressor metal lines that go into the compressor that are given me the problem. I haven't pulled the fan and radiator yet because the weren't in the way and I was trying to quicken the process so I can get my bonne on the road as quick as possible by not pulling out the non essentals ie hood,fan,radiator,power steering pump, etc etc
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Old 08-22-2005, 12:26 AM   #17
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Am I missing something here. There are 2 bolts that hold the a/c line to the compressor. It is a block type thing that both lines are connected to. Unbolt that block from compressor and move out of way. This is much easier with radiator and condenser out.
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Old 08-22-2005, 05:04 PM   #18
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you sure as hell don't need to torch it. My friend was recharging his ac, he used about half a bottle, and layed the can of refrigerant on top of his shock tower, in about five minutes the can reached a high temp because of the engine bay, and it cratered in his shock tower and his firewall with the blast. So if you like your car, not to metion limbs, I wouldn't try a torch.
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Old 08-23-2005, 04:50 PM   #19
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there are 2 bolts in the back of the compressor itself, i know one of them is for the lines, u might need an extension to get to them, i just changed the one on moms 91 SSE a couple of times so i know and i changed the one on the 94 SSE also, one of the bolts is right between the two lines, and i think the other one is to the right, but not sure if that one is holding onthe lines, then there is a bolt on top of the compressor and on the bottom, u need to take them off from the back of the compressor, that is how they are mounted, or if all ur needign is the lines removed, then just use the step i mentioned at the top, once u get that bolt out(or 2 bolts), the lines should just wiggle free real easy and whatever excess refrigerant will leak out, should take u 10 minutes with an extension. No need to remove the fans or nothing if u arent dropping the compressor
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Old 08-23-2005, 06:05 PM   #20
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good news

I just saved a bunch of money by switching to ge....

I managed to get her out. well my dad did and we didnt need to use any torches or pull the fans or radiators
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