that is what we have been working on, checking clutch engagement circuit.

Unless '95'* are different to test the compressor;

with engine off;

connecting a jumper between battery + and terminal A on the clutch coil
does the clutch engage??

if no,, connect a jumper from a good ground to clutch coil term. B
does clutch engage??

if no,,replace coil...

so if the pump is working you know you have a problem up
stream in wireing.

he'* not getting 12v to the relay that turns on the compressor clutch.

I know,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,thats to check the compresser if need be.....

I'm not clear on this, when you turn the A/C on, does the clutch come on and spin the compressor with the engine running? Or is you clutch not coming on?

The last time the compressor was on was either late March or early Aprill. I was leaving the car outside and remember that sometimes in the morning there would be a slight rattle when I would start it. I found that if I turned on the defrost or hit the ac, the compressor would come on and the rattle would go away. Even after I turned the compressor off. I figured there was maybe moisture getting in there and causing some surface oxidiation or something. Right now, the compressor clutch will not engage. The compressor is free to turn by hand though. I am wondering if it is the clutch coil but I should have 12v at the connector on the comressor and do not. I plan to get into it more over this long weekend.

You prolly have the same issue I have, a bad HVAC programmer box. A PITA module to remove up under the dash.

Wanna test to figure out if you're good or not?

Pull your A/C relay out, find the green wire, ground it (Wire on the green wire, and touch the other end to the negitive terminal on the battery),, then the compressor should run constantly until the ground is open again, but let it go for a few min, see if you get cold air or not out of the vents. If you do, and you have all the power everywhere else figured out, then that'* more than likely your issue. Which is what my issue has been too since last summer. As others have stated, if it isn't cold enough for ya after a few min, give'er another shot of refridgerent

I'm out to temporarily wire a switch up to ground out my relay so my a/c compressor will engage, seeing how I JUST got home from MIdas (of all places, looked at it for an hour and a half, love the car and didn't charge me a dine ) Their technician showed me exactly what to do to get it to work, and I got a free top off of refridgerant out of the deal too

If you're using a wally world gauge like I am, here'* an idea of how it should look on a well charged car:

It WAS at 100+ PSI with out the compressor running, but I used the a/c for a while....But off this is ball park what it should look like:


With the A/C compressor running/cycling this is what your pressure should look like:

According to this gauge, I could use a shot of refridgerant, given the midas guy filled it about 1 hr before the pic was taken and I have no leaks.

Lakeville...

According to your gauge... you know nothing.

AC levels should be consistent with those pressures mentioned in the correct year FSM for your car. Any cheap gauge may have coloring that was meant as a general guide...this $5 special you got is totally wrong for the pressures my FSM says I should have and it'* totally different than my $6 special

Please exercise the proper procedures and rely on the manuals for the proper psi.

It was a demonstration. My system IS properly charged....Read posts all the way through before you start jumping on things.