I was askin cuz I pulled this off of the clubgp website.

Yes...Andy'* right...that'* not the photo sensor int the center...

Killing the DRLs is easy, just pull the ECM cover, locate the white box on the fender in front of the horn. Pull the 2 pronged fuse.

To kill the Auto Twilight Lights is easy too. All you do is have to pull the harness at the photo cell and put in a resistor (I forgot the OHMS) and that will trick the car to thinking it is sunny all the time. Works on the *-10'*, so it should work here.

Jay

Ok, here are the instructions for the *-10s, should be the same here. Try it, see what happens. I am not responsable for ill fated outcomes.

in the passenger side of the dash speaker grill, there is a light sensor. this sensor acts as a resistor during the day and keeps the lights off. once night comes, the resistor then disengages and allows the lights to come on. what you need to do is replace the sensor with a 2.2K ohm resistor.

to do this you take out the two screws holding the speaker grill in place (probably need a really short screwdriver). pull it towards you and up slightly. the sensor cable isnt too long, so be careful. unplug the sensor. in the socket where the sensor was, there are two inlets, place each end of the resistor into them and electircal tape it in place. then secure it down there so it doesnt move around. return the speaker grill and screw it in place.

this is the permanent solution to this. if you want, you can press the "dome override" button 4-5 times really quickly. you will hear a chime, and then your daytime running lights (DRLs) and automatic head lamps (AHLs) will both be disengaged. they will, however return to normal each time you start your truck. so it gets to be a pain.

Hope i didnt leave anything out

Also, the sensor on the center of my dash LOOKS identical to the sensor on the dash of my Roomates 2002 Silverado, my brothers 1999 Sierra, and my Buddies 2000 *-10, and all control the Automatic headlights (AHL), so that i what I feel it does in our cars.

Jay

but for the photocell trick you still have to disable the DRL, right? Isn't there a wire to disable both that is farther down the line? And for the guy with his g\f, try parking at the end of the block and then just walk her down...

Oh, fer...



Okay, no offense to macho_mike21 here -- he just happened to have the latest post in this thread when I hit the reply button -- but let'* get some things straight. Listen up, everybody. Hey, you! In the back! Put that thing down!

Right. In no particular order:

1) The little tinted dome in the center of your dash is _not_ the light sensor for the Twilight Sentinel that'* responsible for turning on the lights at dusk. That dome contains the sunlight intensity sensor for your automatic air conditioning system. The light sensor (at least on the '93 SSEi) is a small, flush-mounted button-like lens at the left end of the dashboard near the VIN plate. If you don't believe me, just cover each object for at least 10-15 seconds, with the car running, and see which one turns on the lights.

2) The Twilight Sentinel can be switched off anytime if you don't want it turning the lights on at dusk: just rotate the control ring on the headlamp switch clockwise until it clicks.

3) The control ring for the Twilight Sentinel adjusts the length of time that it leaves the lights on after shutdown, from 5 seconds to 4 minutes. It does not adjust the light sensitivity. There is no adjustment for light sensitivity.

4) The dome-light-override button, on cars so equipped, will kill the DRLs for one driving session if it is pressed 3 times.

5) If you absolutely can't stand the DRLs being on, there is a ceramic resistor (on earlier cars) or relay box (on later ones) inside the left-side fender near the front which can be unplugged. You should not need to mess around in the dash, with any light sensors, or with the headlight switch.

Finally, if you must screw around with the wiring on your car, do the _minimum_ alterations needed to do whatever it is you want to do, since (1) it will make repairing the damage later on a little easier, and (2) side effects of what you do may not be obvious to you right away. For example, a lot of the lighting is not controlled directly by a switch someplace, but by output from a lamp controller that gets various inputs to it (e.g. switch positions, light sensor inputs, transmission settings).

When you change something, make sure you will be able to change it _back_ again, so for example when you rip out the light sensor in the middle of the dash, then discover that you've just disabled your air conditioning instead, make sure you can find the cut wires that fell into the hole so you can reattach them again.

I may sound like I'm getting overheated here, but when I get my hands on a used car for the first time, I invariably have to spend _far_ more time repairing previous "repairs" than I do repairing car parts that actually _broke_!

I wish I still had my 98 SSE now. I could have tried to see of that worked!