brakes still warped after changing whole front end.? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 09-13-2007, 12:23 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Would these be the rotors from Advance?

Have you driven far enough for the surface of the rotors to break in( smooth out a bit )...?

Mic those rotors... If any one point is thicker than another take them back and get them exchaged...

If you got these from advance, i believe the best Rotor you can get from them is the Bendix Rotor..
i have only driven 400 miles on the new rotors...
yes i got these from advance.. did you rember from my other post..wow your memnory is good..
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Old 09-13-2007, 12:37 AM   #12
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How did you break them in? That'* the primary question right now. If you didn't follow break-in procedures, you very well could have warped or glazed them. Were your caliper bolts properly lubed?

How old are the two front brake lines? They collapse with age, causing the caliper to stick, which in turn causes excessive rotor heat.
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Old 09-13-2007, 10:40 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
How did you break them in? That'* the primary question right now. If you didn't follow break-in procedures, you very well could have warped or glazed them. Were your caliper bolts properly lubed?

How old are the two front brake lines? They collapse with age, causing the caliper to stick, which in turn causes excessive rotor heat.
not sure about the age of the brake lines but they might be original...

and i did lube the caliper bolts and made sure i used a lil extra..

and i did not no there was a certain way to brake them in....what was i supposed to do..
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Old 09-13-2007, 10:48 AM   #14
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Breaking them in properly is a much smaller concern in my opinion. Overall how many people driving follow a procedure vs get in and drive w/o having issues. Too many.

The brake hoses could be restricting and causing the calipers to hold fluid and heat up the discs.

Wash your wheels and then over the next week determine if you are seeing an excessive amount of dust.
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Old 09-13-2007, 05:57 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Breaking them in properly is a much smaller concern in my opinion. Overall how many people driving follow a procedure vs get in and drive w/o having issues. Too many.

The brake hoses could be restricting and causing the calipers to hold fluid and heat up the discs.

Wash your wheels and then over the next week determine if you are seeing an excessive amount of dust.
he mentioned that this issues was happening immediately. the hose theory wouldnt do that on an instant.

i guess it would depend on how severe it was.

someone could have dropped the rotor, or bad casting. personally, id like to see it spin on a lathe to see if its true.
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Old 09-13-2007, 06:13 PM   #16
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The brake line could very well cause an instant problem. They get moved, stressed, twisted, and stretched during a brake job. Now factor age into it.
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Old 09-13-2007, 06:31 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
The brake line could very well cause an instant problem. They get moved, stressed, twisted, and stretched during a brake job. Now factor age into it.
thats true,

but considering he has already spent the money on pads, rotors, and calipers, the 30-40 bucks would be a good investment for two new hoses. whether or not they are the problem. cuz if its on the 95, theyre probably the originals
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Old 09-13-2007, 06:50 PM   #18
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To answer the break in question.... as I've been taught....


http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

Right in that link. I have followed that procedure(I did it at a lower speed because it was on a gravel road), and have never had a problem. Brakes don't squeal, rotors were the cheap $20.00 ones from autozone. Didn't change the pads either(A no-no as I've been told). Still, this may be apples to oranges as we have two different cars. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 09-13-2007, 07:10 PM   #19
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This is some information from AllData.
Quote:
Important: Whenever the brake rotor has been separated from the hub/axle flange, any rust or contaminants should be cleaned from the hub/axle flange and the brake rotor mating surfaces. Failure to do this may result in excessive assembled lateral runout (LRO) of the brake rotor, which could lead to brake pulsation.
Quote:
Burnishing Pads and Rotors

Burnishing Pads and Rotors

Caution: Road test a vehicle under safe conditions and while obeying all traffic laws. Do not attempt any maneuvers that could leopardize vehicle control Failure to adhere to these precautions could lead to serious personal injury and vehicle damage.

Caution: Refer to Brake Dust Caution in Cautions and Notices.

Burnishing the brake pads and brake rotors is necessary in order to ensure that the braking surfaces are properly prepared after service has been performed on the disc brake system.

This procedure should be performed whenever the disc brake rotors have been refinished or replaced, and/or whenever the disc brake pads have been replaced.

1. Select a smooth road with little or no traffic.
2. Accelerate the vehicle to 48 km/h (30 mph). Important: Use care to avoid overheating the brakes while performing this step.
3. Using moderate to firm pressure, apply the brakes to bring the vehicle to a stop. Do not allow the brakes to lock.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until approximately 20 stops have been completed. Allow sufficient cooling periods between stops in order to properly burnish the brake pads and rotors.
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Old 09-13-2007, 08:53 PM   #20
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wow yhat was alot to do... so i took everything off and checked for any damage to the brake lines and they checked out good and so did the calipers and rotors...
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