Ok, I have been reading around the forums about brakes. I so far have found that I would be well off going for Bendix Titanium pads and EBC slotted rotors. My only questions are where can I purchase these (according to Advance'* site they don't carry the pads) and do I need to get such expensive slotted rotors for good performance or could I get a hundred dollar set. If the EBC rotor'* are worth the cost difference I will definitely go for them but I am unsure it is worth another $80 according to someone'* quoted cost on here.

Slotted rotors from RSM Racing.

Ceramic Pads from Raybestos.

I just put on a set of EBC slotted and dimpled rotors with Hawk HPS pads, all from Tirerack.com. Advance had calipers on sale for $20 eaqch. Grabbed those and painted them. Threw everything on and followed tirerack'* directions for bedding the pads. It took a good week of daily driving for the coating to wear through on the rotors (felt like brake fading), but now they rock. Best brakes I have ever had. Although, this is the first set of performance brakes I have ever installed on one of my rides. They did make a very cool, but subtle, noise while breaking in. It'* gone now and I miss it.

I think my next set of pads will be ceramic, depending on how these wear.

I thought metallic was better than ceramic. That'* what people were saying on one thread I read. Don't the ceramic ones wear faster and not work quite as good?
EDIT: What about the EBC Green pads, are those any good?

This is where I got my crash course in performance brakes (among several other sites).

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/...brake_pads.jsp

Lot of great articles to read here.

I am not running ceramic pads, but from what I understand, they perform well, last long, and make very little dust.

So if I get the RSM rotors and these http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=219&ptset=A
brake pads from advance I should be golden?

For what it'* worth. I have a 2000 Silverado pickup, 4wd extended cab and 8 foot bed. Friends say I am brutal on it. Original brake pads are ceramic, 100K miles and still have a ton of pad left. Yeah..100,000 miles on original pads, most is daily driving...very few road trips.

They stop better than anything I've owned before with almost no dust at all. Only down side that my mechanic buddy mentioned to me is when you change the pads you have to change the rotors because the ceramic wear the rotors. At 120K I'm changing them whether they need it or not. Picked up my backs tonight (caliper was hung up) $100 a rotor (Advance buddy gave them to me for $70/ea...thanks Ed) and the pads were around $50 ($40 courtesy of Ed). $240 in brakes every 100-120K ... somehow I can live with that kind of cost. And trust me...they STOP great.

I'm not hard on a vehicle...but the bent driveshaft is out being fixed at the moment.

When it'* time...I'm going ceramic....no fade....no heat up and loss....just stopping.

Sounds good to me, I guess I will order the rotors and buy the pads once I get the extra cash. Changing pads and rotors is a pretty simple job isn't it? I could probably do it myself so I wouldn't have to pay.

Rotors and pads yes. I'm sure there'* something in Techinfo, but here goes my quick and simple.

Jack and remove tires, **do one side at a time*** loosen caliper bolts, pop cap off master cylinder, take caliper off keep inside pad on brakes, use c clamp to gently squeeze piston in, clean and lube caliper slide with anti-seize grease (parts store), apply disc brake quiet to back of pads, put hands on rotor...it comes right off, take new rotor out of box...spray well with brake clean (cleaner gets oil off...leave oil on =no stop, clean oil=happy)put rotor on studs, install pads into caliper, put caliper back over rotor and tighten....put wheel back on following torque pattern and specs (techinfo) so you don't warp new rotor.

First time out it'll take you about an hour to do both. After that you'll probably average 1/2-3/4 hour.