1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Boost reading question, chugging, & S/C oil change frequ

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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 04:55 PM
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Default Boost reading question, chugging, & */C oil change frequ

Hi folks,
My boost gauge when cruising around town generally reads in the negatives. At curb idle, it'* all the way in the negative, and comes up between - and 0 when you give it a bit of throttle. It goes into the positive when I tromp on the trottle a bit in gear, but speed gain is reluctant. Is this normal? I found an owner'* manual for a '92.It says the boost gauge should be at 0 when at idle.
Please clarify, as I've only owned the car a couple of days now, and am trying to get used to the terminology used here, and not sure how the car should be performing.
The car hestitates and chugs a bit when you step on it. I've changed the plugs, wires, engine oil & filter, and dumped Premium gas into the tank. It improved quite a bit, but I don't think it'* 100% yet. I've yet to change the PCV, but plan on this weekend. Will the PCV effect boost readings / acceleration or help remove this annoying chugging I am experiencing?
When I gently increase the throttle when in gear, the boost needle will eventually rise into the + and the car will take off. It'* only erratic when I rapidly increase throttle.

Last thing: I read the posting on how to change the */c oil, I'm wondering how often it should be done?
Judging by the colour of the engine oil that came out, I'm questioning the previous owners maintenance frequency.

I'll try to get a picture of the car up for you to check out. It'* in really nice shape, and all stock.

Thanks in advance,
Adam
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 05:27 PM
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You should be all the way in the negative at idle. Mid-throttle should be about zero.

Wide open throttle (WOT) will hit about 7-8psi on a stock SSEi. Yours sounds just right.

SC oil change/check is in Techinfo, link at the top of the page. You can only get boost in a drive gear. It'* bypassed in Park and Neutral. In a sense, you are non-supercharged at idle. Reading the same manifold VACUUM a normal car would see.
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Old Dec 3, 2006 | 06:39 PM
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Hi Mr Wren and other folks experiencing a similar problem.
Get this: a $6.00 bottle of fuel injector cleaner does wonders! The car runs great now (touch wood)
Lots of power, smooth idle, no more hesitation when I tromp on it.
Thanks for your help.
Cheers,
Adam
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Old Dec 3, 2006 | 08:07 PM
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Adam, consider that your fuel filter may be in need of replacement. If the issue comes back soon, that is the first place to start.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 09:12 AM
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According to the fellow I bought it from, the fuel filter was recently changed.
He is an older chap, and very hard to understand, perhaps I mis-heard him.
(maybe he said he bought a new MULE TILTER for his barn? )

Where is the FF for this car? Is it an in-line style near the tank?

Getting back on topic, when the Boost needle goes over 0 and is starting to read a positive, there seems to be a bit of a "pause" before it kicks in and the car takes off (you can feel it suddenly pull forward). Is this normal, or should it be instant? Could the belt be slipping? There is a bit of play in the belt, but I didn't think it was too much...

Thanks again,
Adam
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 09:44 AM
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Your fuel filter is inside the frame rail on the passenger side, just about under where your front passenger'* feet would be. Under the car, inside the right frame rail forward of the front seats.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by labonnevillastrangiato
...Getting back on topic, when the Boost needle goes over 0 and is starting to read a positive, there seems to be a bit of a "pause" before it kicks in and the car takes off (you can feel it suddenly pull forward). Is this normal, or should it be instant? Could the belt be slipping? There is a bit of play in the belt, but I didn't think it was too much...

Thanks again,
Adam
Should he be looking into this adjustment? Haro has a good picture 3 posts down from the top...
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...r=asc&start=26
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by dillcc
Originally Posted by labonnevillastrangiato
...Getting back on topic, when the Boost needle goes over 0 and is starting to read a positive, there seems to be a bit of a "pause" before it kicks in and the car takes off (you can feel it suddenly pull forward). Is this normal, or should it be instant? Could the belt be slipping? There is a bit of play in the belt, but I didn't think it was too much...

Thanks again,
Adam
Should he be looking into this adjustment? Haro has a good picture 3 posts down from the top...
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...r=asc&start=26
That will have no effect on what he describes.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dillcc
Originally Posted by labonnevillastrangiato
...Getting back on topic, when the Boost needle goes over 0 and is starting to read a positive, there seems to be a bit of a "pause" before it kicks in and the car takes off (you can feel it suddenly pull forward). Is this normal, or should it be instant? Could the belt be slipping? There is a bit of play in the belt, but I didn't think it was too much...

Thanks again,
Adam
Should he be looking into this adjustment? Haro has a good picture 3 posts down from the top...
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...r=asc&start=26
the Boost Bypass dosent make a difference in the Boost.....it only gets you into boost faster
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 01:55 PM
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Yeah, he just mentioned a "pause" before it got going so that just reminded me of the adjustment. Oh well.
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