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Old 12-02-2007, 12:29 PM   #1
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Default Blower is intermittent

I just changed my blower control module out with a new one (AC Delco) on my 97 SSE with electronic climate control and the intermittent blower problem is still there. Is there a good way to test this system. Thanks. Freezing in Michigan.
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Old 12-02-2007, 12:45 PM   #2
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Next time it doesn't blow, get out and smack the housing on the engine side of the firewall with your fist or some other blunt instrument. See if it kicks on.

We have another case in Chicago with a blower that won't run in the cold, but does later after it warms up. Frozen is a possibility. In addition, some blower bearings will start to fail this way. Smacking gives it a little encouragement. The tough part is determining whether it'* the cold or the bearings.

Let us know if any of this helps.
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Old 12-02-2007, 12:49 PM   #3
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if you have to hit it to "jumpstart it", that would be a sign that the brushes are worn, which is would be a sign that u need replacement soon.

oh and what part of mich u from?
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Old 12-02-2007, 12:52 PM   #4
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It also could be a bad grounding, I had the same issue and I had to kick it, jiggle it before it would come on.

But once I regrounded it on a better place, it worked fine..
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Old 12-02-2007, 02:19 PM   #5
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Sounds like the blower motor is going bad. Pretty easy to change it out. Replacement will cost about $50.

Here is the procedure lifted from this old post for a '95 SE:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=43548

Check for bad motor by unplugging connector on motor and setting controls for high speed fan
connect test light across terminals to see if power is getting to the motor
if power is getting to motor, and motor is not working properly (e.g., requires whacking to get it to work), its almost certainly bad. so....

remove strut brace (13 mm x 4 nuts or bolts)
remove engine cover (remove oil fill tube front and unsnap rear)
unclip O2 sensor connector and fuel lines connector from rear bracket (needlenose pliers)
remove rear bracket from rear cylinder head (13 mm x 2 nuts)
remove rubber cooling tube (heat with hair dryer if cold to prevent cracking)
remove bolts attaching motor (7 mm x 5)
remove insulating cover from motor (if your car has one)
gently move fuel lines out of the way and pull motor up and out
carefully remove rubber gasket from old motor; install on new motor
remove foam gasket from electrical connector, install on new motor

reverse to install; adding dielectric grease to electical connector
enjoy hot air if winter or cold air if summer

BTW, following the factory service manual procedure to test for a bad blower motor resulted in a waste of about two hours time. Why start by backprobing the blower relay (which is pretty much inaccessible!) when you can just test for power at the motor connector?
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