Best RTV
Originally Posted by Bob Dillon
Uhhh.....What'* a "HVII?" :?:
I was going to suggest Ultra Black RTV.... that'* what Doug and I use all the time. It might not be as tough as the copper, though.
EDIT: I just checked ZZP'* website.... I'm not sure if they sell the HVII anymore.
Originally Posted by big_news_1
Originally Posted by Bob Dillon
Uhhh.....What'* a "HVII?" :?:
I was going to suggest Ultra Black RTV.... that'* what Doug and I use all the time. It might not be as tough as the copper, though.
EDIT: I just checked ZZP'* website.... I'm not sure if they sell the HVII anymore.
It'* an insert to replace the intake runners in the UIM. It makes them shorter which trades some low end torque for a bunch of HP up top. That is of course if you have other supporting mods to complement the flow up top. It also blocks off the coolant passages to the TB so you don't have to worry about UIM failure. I've had mine for a few years now.
If you want to know more go to www.easyperformance.com click techinfo and select HV Intake Insert.
[quote=95naSTA]
since you live in a climate where the weather can be quite cold, I have to ask: have you had any throttle body icing problems?
Originally Posted by "big_news_1"
It also blocks off the coolant passages to the TB so you don't have to worry about UIM failure. I've had mine for a few years now.
If you want to know more go to [url
It also blocks off the coolant passages to the TB so you don't have to worry about UIM failure. I've had mine for a few years now.
If you want to know more go to [url
www.easyperformance.com[/url] click techinfo and select HV Intake Insert.
I agree with Boosty. This is the stuff I am trying out for installing a shield around Dorman'* .510" pipe. It says on the package that is is good for intermittent temperatures up to 700F. It bonds stainless steel to the plastic frame of the UIM gasket very well. And the 700F is the highest temperature I have seen for a flexible sealant/adhesive. I noticed in some of my preliminary tests, just as mentioned, that after about 18 hours, the center of a thick bead was still not cured. I think it might be a good plan not to put the part in service (like we usually do) until the stuff has had a full 24 hours to cure.
I think it might be a good plan not to put the part in service (like we usually do) until the stuff has had a full 24 hours to cure.

(Bill, re your PM, I'm mulling it over).
Originally Posted by Bob Dillon
since you live in a climate where the weather can be quite cold, I have to ask: have you had any throttle body icing problems?
Thanks for the input guys.
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