Belt change, more in-depth - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-25-2007, 01:43 AM   #1
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Default Belt change, more in-depth

I know a belt change was discussed in a topic on this page very recently... but i need to know a bit more because i couldnt see all of the info presented in that topic...


do i have to remove the TAM?

do i have to jack my engine to do that?

is there some sneaking way of doing it without fully removing TAM?



umm... thats all


thanks guys
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Old 08-25-2007, 02:05 AM   #2
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Default Re: Belt change, more in-depth

Quote:
Originally Posted by PontiacBoy17
I know a belt change was discussed in a topic on this page very recently... but i need to know a bit more because i couldnt see all of the info presented in that topic...

do i have to remove the TAM?

do i have to jack my engine to do that?

is there some sneaking way of doing it without fully removing TAM?

umm... thats all
thanks guys
You don't have remove the TAM, only the sleeve at the bottom of the TAM to allow you to slip the belt on/off.

Engine doesn't have to be jacked. The top mount of the TAM will suppot the motor, but getting the sleeve out and back in might require the motor to be lifted ever so slightly so the sleeve can be slipped back in.

Best way to do all this is to:

- Put on the parking brake
- Block the rear wheels (safety first, you know)
- Jack front of Bonne
- Support front using jackstands
- Remove passenger side wheel
- Remove plastic splash shield pins from plastic shield and remove shield (or remove the back two or three and rotate shiled forward out of the way)
- Remove nut and stud from center of TAM sleeve (sometimes the nut and stud come out as one unit and sometimes the nut comes off then the stud), Stud is an external torx but can be removed using a regular socket that fits tightly over the torx head of the stud (may be a 5/32nd...i can't remember exactly)
- Remove metal sleeve, I found for my car that pushing the sleeve up, towards the hood area, from underneath the car, was easier than trying to pull it striaght down and out of the bottom of the car. Also may need to wiggle the sleeve, and eventually ist will come out.
- Slip belt off and past any pullies. (notice belt path so you put it back on correctly)
- Slip new belt on and reverse the above.

Many posts here about the procedure. Type "belt" in the search function and select "92-99l" where it says "Forum" and hit Search for all sorts of info and pics.
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Old 08-25-2007, 11:58 AM   #3
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Old 08-25-2007, 01:27 PM   #4
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Did mine yesterday in a matter of about 20 minutes...pretty simple. I also found that if you don't want to remove your wheel, you can easily access the TAM bolt by cranking the steering wheel full right, and gaining access to the splash guard that way. The sleeve put up a bit of a fight, but it had nothing to say when I used my channel lock'* on it. Belt change was pretty simple, however, the diagram that was provided by Lash I found was wrong somehow...not sure if that came from a different gen or not.

Here'* a pic that was the correct routing for my '97 L36

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Old 08-25-2007, 01:51 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMH1950
Wrong engine, totally different routing. We need to make sure we don't confuse the issue at hand.

Follow Echo'* advice above for an L36 (95 to current non-supercharged).

Here'* a CORRECT belt path diagram:


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Old 08-25-2007, 11:08 PM   #6
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it is not necessary to take off the right wheel, or even lift the car off the ground. ive done this on my 92s every time from just under the hood. 18mm on the tensioner(i believe). then a minor struggle with the routing. about 10 min ordeal if you havenever don it. and less than 5 if you have done thenas manytimes as myself.

i ve been told that this wheel well method is easier. i guess, to each their own. i just prefer not to do more than is necessary. thats just my 2 cents.

edit: but u know what, i thought they started routing the belt around the tam starting with 95, right? maybe the fender wall is necessary. echo has it covered. sorry, ill shut up
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Old 08-25-2007, 11:26 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samueljackson
edit: but u know what, i thought they started routing the belt around the tam starting with 95, right? maybe the fender wall is necessary. echo has it covered. sorry, ill shut up
Haha, to be honest, you probably could pull it off without removing the splash guard, it'* just that I'm not a contortionist and didn't want to hurt myself

Besides, removing the splash guard took an extra 45 seconds, and made things muuuuch easier to get to. No jacking the car up either, as I said in my previous post, I just cranked the wheel hard right and accessed it that way!
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Old 08-26-2007, 01:34 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samueljackson
it is not necessary to take off the right wheel, or even lift the car off the ground. ive done this on my 92s every time from just under the hood. 18mm on the tensioner(i believe). then a minor struggle with the routing. about 10 min ordeal if you havenever don it. and less than 5 if you have done thenas manytimes as myself.

i ve been told that this wheel well method is easier. i guess, to each their own. i just prefer not to do more than is necessary. thats just my 2 cents.

edit: but u know what, i thought they started routing the belt around the tam starting with 95, right? maybe the fender wall is necessary. echo has it covered. sorry, ill shut up

You are way off base. Your belt routing is totally different than that of an L36, which routes the belt THROUGH an engine mount. Please don't compare your 92 to a 95.

This topic is getting very frustrating when improper comparisons and instructions.

Please follow ECHO'* advice above, and the belt path routing photo I posted.
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Old 08-26-2007, 11:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Quote:
Originally Posted by samueljackson
it is not necessary to take off the right wheel, or even lift the car off the ground. ive done this on my 92s every time from just under the hood. 18mm on the tensioner(i believe). then a minor struggle with the routing. about 10 min ordeal if you havenever don it. and less than 5 if you have done thenas manytimes as myself.

i ve been told that this wheel well method is easier. i guess, to each their own. i just prefer not to do more than is necessary. thats just my 2 cents.

edit: but u know what, i thought they started routing the belt around the tam starting with 95, right? maybe the fender wall is necessary. echo has it covered. sorry, ill shut up


You are way off base. Your belt routing is totally different than that of an L36, which routes the belt THROUGH an engine mount. Please don't compare your 92 to a 95.

This topic is getting very frustrating when improper comparisons and instructions.

Please follow ECHO'* advice above, and the belt path routing photo I posted.
notice the edit
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Old 08-27-2007, 12:54 AM   #10
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thank you very much


yea i noticed throughout many topics like this one the directions were very different and very wrong in some cases...

thank you guys for clearing some things up for me... im doing it this coming weekend...
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