Back again for help.....rough idle.
07-26-2006, 05:00 PM
#32
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Okay, will double check it tonight. If it needs to be replace I take it the seal or O-ring needs to be replaced as well? Found the P/N'* on GMPD, seems to be the cheapest around :
Regulator : 89017530 Seal kit: 17113199
Let me know, thanks.
Regulator : 89017530 Seal kit: 17113199
Let me know, thanks.
07-27-2006, 06:34 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by zeroburnz
alright, will get the T connector from the dealer. Question on the bulk hose though. Did a little searching and found this place:
http://www.stylinmotors.com/
Will silicone hose work ? If so what size in MM? thanks.
http://www.stylinmotors.com/
Will silicone hose work ? If so what size in MM? thanks.
07-31-2006, 08:42 PM
#34
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Looks like my post got buried again. About to get a new FPR since it seems to be bad, but i searched on here for that and didn't find a real mention of a misfire condition. Also noticed something else today....when accelerating it is really slow, then all the sudden it jerks and full power is back....really annoying....like the engine isn't getting enough pressure or that the misfire is that bad.
08-01-2006, 11:38 AM
#35
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Well, if your FPR is bad, you should replace it ASAP. A very bad FPR can eventually cause damage to your CAT. Here'* a quote from a source on the web regarding FPR failure.
Regarding the continuing misfire on cylinder #3...I just reread the whole thread and I feel you may need to go back one step and ensure that the new wire and plug on cylinder #3 are good. You mentioned black marks on the plug when you pulled it. That could have been caused by minute cracks in the plug ceramic. Or it could be carbon tracking. Here'* a pic of what carbon tracking could look like.
Note that the type of plug shown in the pic isn't the same as yours, it'* just for illustration. Carbon tracking can be caused by a conductive liquid getting on the surface of the plug. That can include water...
Additionally, I suggest you test the resistance of the ignition (spark plug) wire for that cylinder. The resistance should be 30K ohms.
-- this should point you and the shop to the cause of the misfire. A typical cause is a leaky fuel injector or fuel pressure regulator that dribbles raw fuel into the engine, leaving one or more cylinders flooded at the time of start-up. Often, just a few moments of running will clear the flood, allow the engine to smooth out, and turn off the emissions light. The fault code will remain stored in the computer'* memory.
Note that the type of plug shown in the pic isn't the same as yours, it'* just for illustration. Carbon tracking can be caused by a conductive liquid getting on the surface of the plug. That can include water...
CARBON TRACKING - Electrically conductive deposits on the firing end provide low-resistance paths for the voltage. This condition causes carbon tracks to form, and misfire could occur.
08-02-2006, 11:23 PM
#36
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Alright, gonna do the FPR tomorrow. Ill try to pick up a multimeter to check out that plug wire as well. I ended up swapping the original plug in 3 with one from 5 but didnt see a difference yet, ill recheck it and take pictures if neccessary. Hopefully I'Il be back with good news.
08-03-2006, 01:57 AM
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Don't overlook the obvious, it'* already been said here several times. PLUG WIRE. Plug wire plug wire plug wire. These things are a major source of rough idle in our cars (or at least in mine)! Your plug wire can look just fine externally, but it can be the sole cause of this type of misfire. Easy DIY job. Get on it!
08-04-2006, 11:11 AM
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Alright, did the FPR yesterday. Making some progress, the acceleration and power is back, but still getting a slight misfire and a CEL. Gonna check the codes again and check out that plug and wire as well. Could the misfiring have ruined the spark plug? Guess if its bad or has carbon tracking like lash mentioned it needs to be replace, either way I'll toss up a pic and go from there.
