anyone else seem to have alot of brake rotor problems pulsat - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 01-08-2005, 02:14 PM   #21
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I will probably replace my rear shoes in the near future, too. At that time I'll make sure the adjusters are working properly, and also lube them. At 97,000 it'* probably time for a rear brake job anyway! At last tire rotation they were still at about 50%.
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Old 01-08-2005, 02:27 PM   #22
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One thing that'* been handy for me is the one year warranty that AutoZone provides on their cheapest rotors. With all the miles I drive I can typically get rotors replaced for free and I buy the cheapest pads too and they carry a lifetime warranty. Brake jobs are cheap around my house!! Just the time invested!!
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Old 01-08-2005, 02:57 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kennginn
Quote:
Originally Posted by dblack1
try using a hacksaw to cut an x across ur pads and see if that helps
r u playin with us ????
no. i heard that from an ase certified technician. if u look at some pads they have a slot down the middle of them... they help release the gasses... like slotted and drilled rotors
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Old 01-08-2005, 03:16 PM   #24
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right to one of the tech guys at Brembo and he said the biggest problem is crap rotor material,second is the tol of run out,third is you need to properly "bed" in new pads with a series of hard and soft breaking during break in. If you go to their web site it tells you about this too.
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Old 01-08-2005, 03:18 PM   #25
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Andy, thanks for pointing out that the bolts should be tightened in a star pattern. But I have to respectfully disagree on the dry vs oil on the lug nuts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by acg_ssei
Per the service manual: "All fasteners and threaded holes should be clean and lightly lubricated with oil unless noted otherwise. Dry or dirty threads produce friction which prevents accurate torque measurements."
An example of "noted otherwise" would be the owner'* manual on changing a flat where it says: "Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident"

And, in my ('92) service manual under wheel removal it states: "Penetrating oil is not effective in removing tight wheels; however, if used, apply it sparingly only to the wheel'* center hole area. Caution: If penetrating oil gets on the vertical surfaces between the wheel and the rotor or drum, it could cause the wheel to work loose as the vehicle is driven resulting in a loss of control and an injury accident."

No argument that oil is needed for accurate torque mesurement. I use it everywhere BUT wheel lugs. I have had good results by making sure the threads on the bolt are clean and running the nuts with my fingers to make sure they don't bind. You are correct, the torque reading cannot be as accurate done dry, but it is still way better than no torque wrench, or worse yet, the local tire shop. And, I have suffered no rotor warpage this way. (knock wood!)
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Old 01-08-2005, 04:27 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
Andy, thanks for pointing out that the bolts should be tightened in a star pattern. But I have to respectfully disagree on the dry vs oil on the lug nuts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by acg_ssei
Per the service manual: "All fasteners and threaded holes should be clean and lightly lubricated with oil unless noted otherwise. Dry or dirty threads produce friction which prevents accurate torque measurements."
An example of "noted otherwise" would be the owner'* manual on changing a flat where it says: "Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident"
Yes, I've seen that, too. I think when they say that, they have in mind some guy at the side of the road trying to tighten the things with a lug wrench. When you're cranking it down to 100 lbs./ft. with a torque wrench, I do believe that one drop of oil will ensure an accurate torque, and there'* no way the lug nut is going to back off as a result of that drop.

Anyhow, as you said, if the threads are clean and dry and in otherwise good shape, you're probably going to get something pretty close to 100 lbs./ft. anyway. Even more important, by simply using a torque wrench in the first place, your readings on each of the five lugs will be as close to each other as you're going to achieve (which is the main goal here), regardless of whether they're all at 100 lbs./ft. or all at something slightly less.

Quote:
but it is still way better than no torque wrench, or worse yet, the local tire shop. And, I have suffered no rotor warpage this way. (knock wood!)
Ayup. Mine'* at 121,000 right now with the original rotors still straight and true. (Lots of highway miles, don'tcha know. )
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Old 01-08-2005, 07:36 PM   #27
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ive heard of putting anti-seize on the studs, but ive never heard of anybody using penetrating oil on them
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Old 01-09-2005, 01:47 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dblack1
ive heard of putting anti-seize on the studs, but ive never heard of anybody using penetrating oil on them
Yes,the service manual says you can use penetrating oil in the _center_ of the wheel if it'* stuck to the hub (if I remember right), but that'* the only case, and you need to be real careful to avoid getting it on the brake surfaces. (Duh. )
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Old 01-11-2005, 03:51 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LakevilleSSEi
Quote:
Originally Posted by Damemorder
Umm... I put my RSM'* through an AutoX racing season and I don't have any shimmy...

http://www.rsmracing.com/
How much are rotors from RMS? I can't find anything on that site?
$90 ea. + $50 Raybestos Quiet-Stop Ceramic pads.
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Old 01-12-2005, 12:51 AM   #30
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This might explain your pulsating.
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
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