1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Any advice before removing door panel

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Old 03-30-2005, 10:54 AM
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I did a mirror this past weekend and learned real quick.

The tool to have is a 10mm wrench with the built in ratcheting closed end. Works perfectly in that tight space behind the leading edge of the window. Two clicks at a time saved me about 45 minutes. The other trick to know is that the mirror studs seem to come nearly straight in, where logic says they'd be pointing downward.

Sorry about the late info. Hopefully it helps someone later on.
Old 03-30-2005, 01:51 PM
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When I replaced the speakers in my car I messed up and the panel came apart from the top plastic strip with the staples in it. How can this be fixed?
Old 03-30-2005, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by lglarum
When I replaced the speakers in my car I messed up and the panel came apart from the top plastic strip with the staples in it. How can this be fixed?
Man i have no idea. lol i just broke mine where the staples were so it dosen't stick out or anything and the plastic screw things keep it in place. Some one made their own metal ones at one point. They were pretty nice.
Old 03-31-2005, 12:17 PM
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My panel came off and left the strip too. I put it all back together and it looks fine. For all I know whoever was in there before me did it. Put it back on and it'll look fine...only one that will know is you. (And us)
Old 03-31-2005, 01:38 PM
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Well I got the door panel off easily. But what stumped me was that the mirror was completely out of my reach. So I pulled the half *** job of silicone on the mirror and re-did it. The mirror seem to be knocked off like the last retard ran into the side of his garage or something... So I had to stick my finger in the little hole where the power mirror wiring runs through and hold the nuts and tighten the broken pieces (The mirror was completely borken off). I got it as tight as I could and put the silicon in nicely, no more of that crap hanging out through the cracks. But sadly it is still a little loose... Thanks for the advice everybody, I will have to eventually get a whole new mirror assembly.
Old 03-31-2005, 03:48 PM
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I don't suppose you saw my post under FREE for the old mirror I had.

Includes slightly broken plastic mirror housing. Fixable motor with very little. The actual motor works great. An ear is broken off and can be glued. The mirror itself it power and heated, not tinted. I needed heat, tint and power.

The housing isn't very bad. But OCD keeps me from leaving it on a car of mine. All I'm asking is the shipping costs.
Old 03-31-2005, 04:06 PM
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...964146273&rd=1

Just saw on Ebay with like 6 hours left!
Old 03-31-2005, 06:10 PM
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Thanks, but I'll be going to my local junkyard full of Bonnies I think they'll have everything I need.
Old 04-01-2005, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by fast&heavy
Thanks, but I'll be going to my local junkyard full of Bonnies I think they'll have everything I need.
:offtoppic:

I hate you people that has Bonnevilles 96+ in the wreckers.. all I see is 93-
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