Anti-Theft Idea - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-16-2003, 09:22 AM   #11
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lol
when it comes to wiring, trust me ,, "SIZE DOES MATTER"
example:
if you jump start a car with a very cheap set of cables, chances are that they will get hot.
wire size is like hose size,the smaller the hose, the less water will go through it. same goes for the electrons. the more you force through a small wire, the hotter it gets.
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Old 02-16-2003, 01:07 PM   #12
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Jeffery is RIGHT! Wire size does matter! If you use the Cruise Control wires as part of the Starter system, every time you use it, you'll be buying a new Cruise Control Switch (Which isn't cheap, since it'* part of the MULTIFUNCTION SWITCH: Turn Signals, WSW Switch & Cruise Control Switch)! So do really want to spend $300 - $400 EVERY time you start the car?????? A seperate "Dedicated" switch is the ONLY way to go! It'* cheap, hidden & best of all won't cost you that much!
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Old 02-16-2003, 01:22 PM   #13
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Default Starter kill switch

Back in the late '70'*, I ran the little starter wire on my '64 GTO through a very tiny sliding microswitch.
The switch was superglued to the back side of the steering-column bracket and the sliding part of the switch faced out through a little hole in the bracket. You could get under the dashboard and LOOK right at the little slide and never know it was a switch. It was easy to reach, as long as one knew the exact location.
The little switch worked like a champ for the next 13 years.
Two ex-wives never figured out where the thing was hidden, either. Heh, heh, heh...
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Old 02-16-2003, 03:02 PM   #14
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I've done this to every car I've owned in the last 10 years:

Wire a remotely fused switch into whatever circuit controls the fuel pump. Why? If someone gets in, and it won't crank, they LOOK FOR A SWITCH! If the car cranks, but won't start, they think it'* a broken POS.

I didn't do this to my Bonneville, because they need my key, or need to be a real pro to be prepared for VATS or Passkey, and on top of all that, I have the full factory security system.

If you're gonna do it anyway, try that trick. There'* also a fuel pump pin on the ALDL connector.....not sure how it'* used, but it can be figured out.
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Old 02-16-2003, 04:02 PM   #15
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great idea will.



sounds like experience with ex wives. lmao
j/k
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Old 02-16-2003, 04:12 PM   #16
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I'll tell you that trick actually worked on her Suburban before our divorce, too. Fooled her a couple times, even though she knew it was there.

95% of the car thieves out there will give up if the car cranks, but doesn't start. No crank, and they're looking for a device. They'll do damage, but they won't get the car.
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Old 02-16-2003, 08:56 PM   #17
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i knew that idea came from somewhere. lol
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Old 02-17-2003, 12:17 PM   #18
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I wish i knew how to wire it up to a switch and everything
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Old 02-17-2003, 01:26 PM   #19
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Dillon, it'* really easy. You can buy the auxiliary fuse holder with 2 wires coming from it at an auto parts store for a couple bucks. You just put two terminals on the wire ends so it'll plug in where the original switch was. Then move the fuse into it. Pick one of the 2 wires, and cut it. Install the switch in between.

Cake.
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Old 02-17-2003, 09:35 PM   #20
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Instead of all of this wiring of a security system, i got a better idea. it'* called ejector-seats. I think that'd get a really good look outta the car theif as he is flying sky high. Just a suggestion. could it work? LOL j/k
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