Another odd steering problem - UPDATED (9/22)!! - Page 4 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 09-01-2006, 09:03 PM   #31
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If the drum is already broken loose from the hub, you may not need any penetrating oil. Otherwise, spray it around the hub where it meets with the drum in the center. As you could be running into the rust problem around the edge, keep the drum as even as possible.
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Old 09-02-2006, 09:45 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chzhead
I did have one side supported with the jack and it barely moved, maybe a 1/2 inch. I spent about 10 min hammering around the drum with a rubber mallet while trying to remove the drum in between a few swings.

What can I use penetrating oil on?

(It'* on my list of things to do this long weekend)
Rubber Mallet??? You need a HAMMER!!!
Bang the Crap out of that Drum. Also if you see rust around the hub, try using some emory cloth to remove as much as you can. Penetrating oil around that hub couldn't hurt either. It WILL come off.......eventually.
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Old 09-05-2006, 11:49 AM   #33
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OK, so here'* the deal. I was finally able to get the dang rear drums off (10 minutes per side with PB Blaster and lightly using a 5lb sledge). Everything looks fairly good with the rears. no groves, cracks or anything else. If I have some spare time, I may take all the rust off and paint the drums....but that'll be later
'

Opened up the right passenger side again and tried a few things. Disconnected the caliper and hose again and bled from the brake hose. Once bled 3 times, reconnected the caliper and bled the system again. When both sides were proped up, I had my wife put the car in drive (with the tire off and lugs holding the rotor on and caliper/brake attached) to see if the pads were releasing correctly. Instead, when the car was in drive the rotor was not rotating around perfectly. It seemed to wobble back and forth (about 1 inch or so). I can't believe that should be normal???

So would that mean the hub assembly is bad? Or perhaps something else? Any more ideas????




***EDIT: BTW, the slight wobble is still in the steeing wheel when I drive.
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Old 09-05-2006, 12:11 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chzhead
Opened up the right passenger side again and tried a few things. Disconnected the caliper and hose again and bled from the brake hose. Once bled 3 times, reconnected the caliper and bled the system again. When both sides were proped up, I had my wife put the car in drive (with the tire off and lugs holding the rotor on and caliper/brake attached) to see if the pads were releasing correctly. Instead, when the car was in drive the rotor was not rotating around perfectly. It seemed to wobble back and forth (about 1 inch or so). I can't believe that should be normal???

So would that mean the hub assembly is bad? Or perhaps something else? Any more ideas????

***EDIT: BTW, the slight wobble is still in the steeing wheel when I drive.
It'* possible that the original replacement rotors became warped, but 1" is a lot of warpage. It will be easy to tell. Just pull that wheel, remove the caliper (hang it with a piece of wire or something so you don't damage or crimp the hose), and rotate the rotor. With THAT much wobble, it will be easy to see if it'* the rotor or not.

It'* beginning to sound a lot like you may have a hub problem on that side also, IMO.
From page 1:
Quote:
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... Also, when the front tires were on I tested how much play was there, both tires moved about an inch or so (in the 9 and 3 positions). Not sure if that'* in the tolerable range.
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Old 09-05-2006, 02:05 PM   #35
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If you had 1" of rotor warp your car would be shaking to death.

When you pull your calipers off, do the bolts/slides function well? Mine froze up due to very slight overspray, and wouldn't slide out to normal position.
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Old 09-05-2006, 03:29 PM   #36
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I was guessing at the measurement. It was meant more to state that it was moving more than anything. Both bolts slide very well. Keep in mind that they are rebuilt calipers that were installed a few months back.
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Old 09-05-2006, 11:33 PM   #37
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Well, I picked up some new bearings on the way home from work today but have not had a chance to change them. Why you ask? I don't have a socket big enough for the main nut.


What size is the main center nut? I have the T-55.
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Old 09-06-2006, 12:44 PM   #38
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This is a write-up by 95naSta, axle nut is 34mm.

Quote:
Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly Removal and Installation

1. Break wheel lugs loose and axle nut (34mm) if you have aftermarket rims

2. Jack up the car using the engine cradle or unibody below the front door
3. Remove wheel
4. Remove caliper using a 3/8 allen wrench

5. Have something tall enough to rest the caliper on so it isnít hanging by the brake line
6. Remove rotor

7. Remove the axle nut completely
8. Unplug the ABS sensor
9. Put car in Neutral
10. Rotate the hub to gain access to 3 T55 bolts

11. Remove each bolt through the larger hole in the hub
12. Gently tap the axle and back of hub to break free from steering knuckle
13. Remove old hub assembly
14. Remove the metal guard that the ABS sensor attaches to and put it on the new hub assembly the same way

15. Take new hub assembly, feed the ABS sensor plug through the steering knuckle and put axle though the new unit
16. Bolt new hub assembly to the knuckle by tightening each T55 bolt down a little at a time
17. Once the T55 bolts are tightened completely, put the car in Park
18. Tighten the axle nut down to recommended torque given with new unit
19. Plug ABS sensor back in
20. Install rotor
21. Push brake caliper piston back using a c-clamp or brake tool
22. Install caliper using 3/8 allen wrench
23. Mount wheel
24. Lower car and tighten lugs in star pattern
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Old 09-22-2006, 02:31 PM   #39
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OK......sorry for the delay, but I wanted to give my car time to see if the problem still existed.

I was able to put new bearing hubs in about 2 weeks ago and the wobble in the steering still exists, as stated in the beginning.. The braking seems OK, but at times it will still pulsate (not like the ABS is kicking in). Especially when braking hard on the freeway.

I'm not sure what the problem is. The wobble seems to come and go. As stated earlier, the tires have already been balanced and rotated before. Ball joints? Tie rod? Struts? Not sure. Any other suggestions? Otherwise I think I will need to is take it to a front end specialist to see if they can pinpoint the problem. May be cheaper than just throwing parts at it.

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Old 09-22-2006, 03:01 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chzhead
OK......sorry for the delay, but I wanted to give my car time to see if the problem still existed.

I was able to put new bearing hubs in about 2 weeks ago and the wobble in the steering still exists, as stated in the beginning.. The braking seems OK, but at times it will still pulsate (not like the ABS is kicking in). Especially when braking hard on the freeway.

I'm not sure what the problem is. The wobble seems to come and go. As stated earlier, the tires have already been balanced and rotated before. Ball joints? Tie rod? Struts? Not sure. Any other suggestions? Otherwise I think I will need to is take it to a front end specialist to see if they can pinpoint the problem. May be cheaper than just throwing parts at it.

uhhh how bout the rotors??
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