Ok, the connector is the plug that goes into the top of the pump (i assume) where it goes into the tank at the back, right side of the trunk (looking from the rear of the car). Well, sounds like its time to pull the sub box again, grrrr.

Hey, would having the subs firing into the back seat right by the pump cause any problems from excess vibration and such? I know for sure that the box corner does not touch the connector, but the way I built my box has the magnets hanging out and aiming down and towards the pass through right behind the seat.

One more question: To replace the pump, does the tank have to be dropped out of the car or can it be done through the top from the trunk? Also, are there any seals or gaskets that would require replacing during the swap?

Gotta drop the tank.

Disregard most of what I wrote above, a had the monkey hat on and went ahead and found the fuel level sender, not so much the pump module. I did find it today, and I'm gonna go clean it and check it out in a second.

Today the car would start and run for about 5 seconds and then die. After several tries it ran for about 5 minutes until I turned it off. This confuses me, but intermittent problems are always the most fun to diagnose.

Got the Walbro pump installed. Had to return the wiringg upgrade (not the same connectors as 99 GP), and Alt cable upgrade (not the same connectors as 99 GP). Apparently the ZZ Performance only has Grand Prix parts for the newer models. They didn't mention that when I ordered them, and they knew the application.

The pump came with hose & clamps to allow me to cut the tubing, and install the pump on the Bonnie sending unit. I got it all back together, making sure the connectors were all making contact. After filling it past 1/4 tank, it fired right up. I went to the gas station, and put more gas in, came home. reved it in park, and it died. Multiple tries to start have failed. it ran again for 1 minute and died.

I am hearing an unusual sound under the hood when it dies/attempts to start, almost a chirping sound. It is like a compressor letting off excess pressure. I'll be looking for loose hoses as well.

I was reading in the subject: "Car won't start, stall, die saga continues" that the crankshaft sensor, and ignition modules have similar symptoms. Are these difficult and expensive?

Another funny thing is, the windows don't operate. Hmmmm........ Out to check the fuses this morning.

I am broke, and my son need his car to get to work. What a bummer.
Thanks in advance for the advise.
John

I replaced the PCM, that I am told sends a signal to the relay, and the pump. Still no pump noise when I turn on the key, and no pressure.

All the fuses are good, I checked every one, even on the pass side, with a digital meter.

Still no working windows either. The stereo, and lights, bells & buzzers work, but no windows or fuel pump.

Any ideas? Next post may be "FOR SALE"

Thanks
John (for Nate)

I am cross posting this from the topic: Car won't start, stall, die saga continues
because they relate to each other, and might help someone.

Friday night, I dropped the gas tank again to check the pump connections.
...................
I have done this twice in the last month, so here'* the procedure:
loosen up the exhaust so it can be lowered to clear the tank. There are 2 rubber rings near the cat., take out a couple of the 7 mm sheet metal screws surrounding the O2 sensor and lower it out of the way. Take the loops off the rubber isolators in the back. put a jack under it and lower it down, but support it so you don't mess with the front maniforl connection with springs.
There are 2 hoses for the gas fill you will have to loosen up & pull off.
2 bolts to take the straps off at the back. (one of mine had a clip break, and I had to cut the strap, and drill out the head of the bolt to get it out. partszoneonline has the cheapest I found for straps, clips, and bolts. (8.25 Vs. 26.00 locally)
There are 3 gas line connections with quick clips, and 2 electricall lines. I was told that the 3 wire one in an earlier post was the "Fuel Low" light on the dash sensor. The 4 wire is the gas sending unit level and pump. Watch the brake line on the way down. Get as much gas out of the tank as you can. You might need to siphon it out of the large rubber hose , if you can't get through the flap on the side (I did),

Installation is the reverse
..................
THIS IS WHAT HAPPENED TODAY-----------
The fuel pump worked on it'* own with a battery charger for a power source.
The signal from the connector showed 11+ volts for a 2 second interval, just as it should.
There was no voltage on the pump side of the connector though.

I spoke with a friend on the phone for some advise I figured out that the pin for the ground was bad on the connector, so I bought a trailer hitch type 4 pin connector for the time being.
I changed the connector, soldering all splices.
Now, the pump side of the trailer connector was showing voltage too.
When you plugged it in, there was still no pump action

I was getting pissed at another lost day of work for no progress. Cindy & I were arguing over parting it out, or towing it in to see if we could get any money for it. (We have been together nearly 30 years. This was a fight by our standards. We nearly always discuss things, and it never even gets the least bit heated. I was really stressing out). She grabbed a beer, and so did I to calm our spirits.

I got to thinking.... What about running a hot from the accessories terminals I set up inside, just to see if it runs on that, straight to the pump. I tried it, and nothing.

Then I thought (Elementary my dear Watson) what about the ground? I drilled a hole in the frame near the fuel filter, and connected it to the ground wire for the pump, and it fired up, just like it'* supposed to for a couple seconds. I went in the back where Cindy was watering her flowers (her therapy), and told her to turn on the key, with me underneath, so I could believe what I was seeing and hearing. Sure enough, the pump was working!

She helped with the jack to raise the tank back up Don't you just love a woman that isn't afraid to grab a jack handle? (... I could get more descriptive, but I think you can tell by our long standing relationship....)

I got it back on the ground, siphoned about a half tank out of the El Camino that was in the Bonneville to begin with, and it fired right up every time, I drove up the block without incident too.

The windows work again too. These were not working during this pump issue. Where would the ground for both of these originate from?????? There may be another problem down the line if this connection is bad!

I am glad I didn't buy more expensive modules and sensors. I'm even happier that I found the problem, instead of paying some nimrod at a dealer, for NOT finding it, but replacing $700.00 worth of parts.

I am in need of some serious prayers to keep this thing rolling till Nate is old enough to get a car with a warranty. Then I'll be off the hook for this stuff. He will be 18 in October, and will be starting to build credit of his own, so he can get something more reliable. To me, this is the only problem he has had with it, and it IS reliable, but I can see how he would mistrust it, having stranded him several times.

I suggest a 1969 Camaro RS convertible I saw at Volo auto museum last weekend for $12K. No sensors, except for the gauges!

Thanks for all the advise!
JC
---
John Christensen
NECOA #042 1984 El Camino
http://home.comcast.net/~johncgg/elcamino.htm

I'm glad to hear this worked out. Electrical problems can be an absolutely nightmare (as you now know) to fix. Hopefully it won't give you any more problems Overall these cars are great.