1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Another Coolant Leak Post!

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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 05:49 PM
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Default Another Coolant Leak Post!

Welp, I've been dealing with a cracked radiator for the last 3 weeks (i've been shopping for a new car)
Today while I was driving I heard a hissing sound from under my hood coming seems like it'* coming from the area of the PCV Valve. I filled the coolant tank up, and low and behold, 4 minutes later there is a giant puddle right in front of the oil pan. I can see a small puddle in a groove a few inches under the PCV valve. but it'* not leaking from there. Any ideas on where to look next? I'd like to get this car to last another month or so. I can try to post pics later on tonight.
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 11:54 PM
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Our '94 cracked it'* crummy little plastic cooling fitting that comes out of the intake manifold. There'* a small hose that comes off of it. It'* right where you're talking about, and it will definitely shut you down (as it did ours).

The other place to look is the water pump which is directly below that. If you're running hot because of the leaking radiator, it can definitely send your WP to water pump heaven.

Another place to look is EVERYwhere

I can tell you from sad experience, stop driving it until you have everything fixed.

Luck !
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 12:11 AM
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I just went out and looked -- that fitting is hard to see. You have to get your head right over the back of the alternator and sight down the back left with a flash light. The hose goes to the water pump.

If you need to get at it, the alternator comes off in a few minutes, but you need an 18 mm socket (I think) and a 1/2 inch breaker bar on it to ease the idler pulley tension off from the serpentine belt.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 01:03 AM
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Thanks, i'm going to take a look at it first thing in the morning
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 10:47 AM
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Replace it with a metal fitting from any parts store. All Series 1 L27'* and L67'* should do this as part of their next tuneup. I keep spares here for meets and local members for this reason.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 01:14 PM
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And I imagine this is what you're speaking of! When I took the photo I saw the grooves and figured it was something like that.

Slug, Will thanks for the help. Much appreciated as always

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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 09:09 PM
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Wow, you mean I got one right !

Keep at the cooling issues -- that'* been the biggest bugaboo for me on Bonnevilles (but not many others(bugaboos), which is why we likes them )
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 01:09 AM
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Alright, I'm having trouble getting this thing out. I've tried with the needle nose, an angled screwdriver, a little bit of pb blaster, I can get it to budge. (see above photo) Any ideas?

Thanks for any help
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 03:05 PM
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Can't remember how I got mine out.

But will it still take a socket?

Otherwise, since it'* plastic, try an industrial duty heat gun, if you have one. Like a hair-dryer but much hotter. Heat the manifold, not the fitting. Keep the hex part cool with a socket or wet rag or something. That may loosen it at the threads. (Maybe first try heating it a little, then as it cools, hit it with the PB Blaster. This process can help suck the penetrating oil in.)

Worst case, you may have to just melt it out (carefully, no flames, use heat gun), and then clean up the plastic from the threads as best you can.

Maybe the gearguys will have some other ideas?.
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 03:18 PM
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I'd try stuffing a rag inside with the tail hanging out and try chipping at it with a small screwdriver or chisel. I recall the dealer saying they had to chip mine out when it broke on my '93.
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