Air conditioner/heat does not blow - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-25-2005, 10:51 AM   #11
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It seems a post I tried to put up the other nite didn't take. In my 95 manual and the years seem pretty similar on the blower motors. The resistor only controls speeds 1, 2, and 3. High aka 4th is direct to a relay in the center of the firewall in the engine compartment. I can't discern which relay. But if you have someone sit in the car with the switch on high you should be able to feel one of the relays clicking. This would be the high speed. It'* seperate from the resistor pack. (no resistance needed)

If you can't tell, some of the 93 vets should be able to tell you which relays it isn't and you can narrow it down from there.

I'd figure it'* either switch or relay..but check relay first. Probably a dirty connection.
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Old 07-25-2005, 01:02 PM   #12
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Old 07-25-2005, 02:07 PM   #13
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Ok.. your relays are right above the blower motor.
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Old 07-25-2005, 02:10 PM   #14
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The HI speed blower relay is under the RH Maxifuse box. There is no built-in relay in the blower motor assembly.

Relays are as follows:
AC compressor relay---horn relay---HI blower relay---empty---ABS pump relay---main relay (ABS)---HI speed coolant fan---LO speed coolant fan

This would be with hood up, Maxifuse cover off, standing in front of the car looking at the firewall.

Your blower motor is ready to check out. Oiling the thing is just going to get it oily as the sealed bearings can not be lubricated. Personally, I would be testing the voltage going into the blower motor connector. The readings on LO, MED1, and MED2 should be progressively higher in voltage with the different settings but remain steady as it remains on each setting. On HI, you should see full battery voltage and again remain steady as long as it'* on HI. Once you verify that the voltage to the blower motor is correct, replace the blower motor.
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Old 07-25-2005, 06:47 PM   #15
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Old 07-25-2005, 07:28 PM   #16
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Repair the connector first then check the voltage as described above to determine that the blower motor is the problem.

You lost me when you described using jumpers to bypass something and whatnot. I'm curious about the integrity of that circuit now. Can you post a pic of the area between the blower motor resistor and the blower motor? The connector too.
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Old 07-26-2005, 11:21 AM   #17
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I don't have a camera on me right now, but here'* a better description of where I am at with this:

1. Assume that everything looks as if it were original.
2. The blower does not function.
3. I start the car.
4. The blower still does not function (switch is on high)
5. I move the electrical connector on the blower around
6. I discover that if the connector is moved into a certain position, it works full blast
7. I take the blower out and check ohms from the electrical connector to the braid inside the motor, and I get mixed readings from both positive and negative. There is a break or short on both pos. and neg.
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Old 07-26-2005, 11:33 AM   #18
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Another thing I want to clarify. Most parts stores would refer to the "blower motor" as the entire unit: fan, motor, casing and connector. In the case where I want to refer to all of these items, I will call the part "blower."
When I want to refer only to the "motor" section of the blower, I will call it "motor" or "blower motor," since the fan section is not a motor.
I think what you are missing is the fact that I have removed the entire "blower," opened it, and checked the motor section with an ohm meter.
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Old 07-26-2005, 11:35 AM   #19
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sounds like you need to fix the connector whether it'* on the blower, blower motor or the wiring harness itself.

Then test the wiring harness for the full power when the switch is on high. If you have no power then follow it straight up the firewall to the relay. If the relay checks out ok..then follow it back to the switch and determine if that is the problem.
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Old 07-26-2005, 12:44 PM   #20
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OK I will check all of that before I move forward. The problem is in the connector on the blower itself. I was able to determine that by taking the blower apart and use an ohm meter for continuity. The break is in the molded section of the connector on the blower. I would have to rig an entirely new connector and then attach the harness to that, but admittedly, I've already purchased a new blower, and seeing how replacing the entire blower will be faster than creating a new connector on the current blower, I will probably just do that. Then I will put a new connector on the old blower later and use it as a spare.
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