1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

AHHHH HELP NO BRAKES!!!

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Old 03-03-2007, 09:44 AM
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Default AHHHH HELP NO BRAKES!!!

hey guys i was driveing last night and i hit the brakes and the peddle felt softer than norm i kept driveing hit the brakes again and BAM peddle right to the the floor OMFG **** my pants at this point because i am driveing with NO BRAKES so i down shift into 3rd and then 2nd and waited to get into first and then i stoped. I poped the hood and checked the master cyclinder and it was DRY. ohh and btw i had the brake light flashing on my dash i guess because the computer saw the MC was empty. so now i am stuck out by my school i called a friend and and the only thing he had was dot 3 ford brake fluid so i say the hell with it its going in so i put it in pump the brake and they are KINDA back not fully tho. I looked for leaks under the car did not see any puddles or fluid sparying out as i hit the brakes so i dont know whats going on and the fulid in the MC is still in there has not leaked out so what the HELL happend and how can i track down the prob thanks!
Old 03-03-2007, 10:14 AM
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Capitals, punctuation, and grammar, in addition to proper sentence and paragraph structure will go a long way if you want people to bother reading your posts and respond.

Posting it in the correct section would also help. General Chat is for non-mechanical, non-performance General Bonneville Chat.

Third, what the hell is FORD brake fluid? Something special? You need BUICK brake fluid.

Next time, use the E-brake to help stop your car. That'* what it'* for.

To start, you need to get under the car and check the two rear brake cylinders and the two front calipers for leaks. Then check your PMV assembly under your airbox. Then look at the firewall under the MC/brake booster. Find the leak, don't drive it until you do.

Moving to 92-99.
Old 03-03-2007, 10:21 AM
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I had the same problem with my ol' bonne the fluid was leaking out of the back seals on the master cylinder where the MC meets the brake booster.
Old 03-03-2007, 10:59 AM
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We've asked in your previous posts for better structure, and as WillWren mentioned, I came "this close" to not bothering to read it. If you want assistance, you can do a bit of work to make your posts easier to read.

All the suggestions so far have been known problems to check. The rear wheel cylinders are a particular weak spot. Once you find the leak, you'll also have to do a complete bleeding procedure to get the air out of your lines and likely the master cylinder.
Old 03-03-2007, 12:52 PM
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I know i am bad at spelling and my grammer is not good at all but its some thing you may have to over look with me its never been my strong point lol and i have spilt water on my laptop keyboard so some of the keys dont work lol so ya but i check the MC where it hooks up to the brake booster and there was some drip lines but thats about it. I think it may be a wheel cylinder. As of right now i dont have a jack i do have the factory jack but to much work i will see what i can do tho. If it is a wheel cylinder front or back is this some thing i can do in my driveway with the chiltions book? Thanks guys sorry for the bad grammer
Old 03-03-2007, 01:44 PM
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Rogers, we can forgive spelling and grammar...some have a hard time with those things. Everyone is capable of hitting the shift key for capital letters, and throwing in things like periods, commas, and line feeds. When it all runs together, it makes it hard to read, and understand. We could miss an important point.

Brake fluid not being very thick, it won't leave heavy marks behind. The lines that you are seeing indicates a leak at the master cylinder. My dad'* '95 had that very symptom when the master cylinder went bad.

The wheel cylinders aren't too bad of job. Make sure that you support the vehicle properly, not just with a jack. Use jack stands. There are a couple of things to watch for. First, removing the brake line from the rear cylinder. A flare wrench will be a tremendous help there. The other is that the bolts holding the brake cylinder on may be the reverse torx type, rather than a standard head. It is something that you should be able to do in your driveway.
Old 03-03-2007, 03:11 PM
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well I went for a drive around the block and when i got back the fluid was low so and there are no new drip marks along the MC i tightent the bolts or the MC and i did get maybe a twist or two out of them. maybe that will stop that leak. But i am going to find out where the leak is tonight with the help of a friend how much do you think this will all run me i am going ot be doing this in my driveway
Old 03-03-2007, 06:37 PM
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check with your schools auto-shop, if they have a class, they probably would do all the work for the cost of the parts.
Old 03-03-2007, 07:44 PM
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i dont want to have to done at my highschool i know the people who will be working on the car and i dont trust them worth a damn! and i want to do it my self aswell
Old 03-03-2007, 07:49 PM
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Well thats the best way to learn, you get some cudo'* for that.
Find the leak and we'll be glad to help.


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