About to redo front brakes
#1
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About to redo front brakes
I am about to replace the pads and rotors on my 89 and I am just wondering if there are any tips or tricks I should know.
I am going to take a close look at the calipers and see if they need rebuilding/replacing too but will probably have to hold off doing that if they need it. :(
Any help would be appreciated.
I am going to take a close look at the calipers and see if they need rebuilding/replacing too but will probably have to hold off doing that if they need it. :(
Any help would be appreciated.
#2
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Have you already gotten your new rotors? If not, I'll make a suggestion or two. Same thing for pads. Other than that, just clean your calipers and inspect them closely. Standard run of the mill brakes.
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I was planning to order them at work tomorrow, hit up that jobber discount , but if you have any suggestions that would be great.
I would like to by the Drilled rotors that Ty has but I just can't afford them now.
I would like to by the Drilled rotors that Ty has but I just can't afford them now.
#4
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Do NOT buy DRILLED rotors. Bad news. Ty'* are slotted.....and quite frankly, if you go with stock rotors, you'll have trouble eventually. They have a reputation for warping.
My reccomendation are the RSM slotted rotors from Domestic Performance, and any ceramic pads. It'* worth waiting until you can afford it. This setup will outlast 2-3 stock setups, and have better performance, too.
My reccomendation are the RSM slotted rotors from Domestic Performance, and any ceramic pads. It'* worth waiting until you can afford it. This setup will outlast 2-3 stock setups, and have better performance, too.
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Bah i am tired and got my terms mixed up.
Mine are already warped and I have to replace them because I have to drive my car back to school on sunday. I can't drive the car that far the way it is so I have to replace them on thursday when I am not working.
I can't wait to buy the good rotors and I could not afford them anyway since I have to pay tuition, 1100 dollars not counting books, on monday. That is only for 6 credit hours too I am so glad I don't have to take a full load of classes this semester. Most of the colleges in VA have been forced to raise tuition because our budget has been so screwed over by the economy and all the tax cuts our last gov put though.
Tuition at my school was 1850 dollars for 12 credit hours and up last semester and now it is almost 2300 dollars for the same credit hours.
In short I am screwed and don't have a choice.
It does not matter though the entire drive train in my car wont be spending too much more time in there anyway. I have a plan on what I want to replace it with I just need to do more research and finaly get a new car so I can put this one into mothballs while i save money.
Mine are already warped and I have to replace them because I have to drive my car back to school on sunday. I can't drive the car that far the way it is so I have to replace them on thursday when I am not working.
I can't wait to buy the good rotors and I could not afford them anyway since I have to pay tuition, 1100 dollars not counting books, on monday. That is only for 6 credit hours too I am so glad I don't have to take a full load of classes this semester. Most of the colleges in VA have been forced to raise tuition because our budget has been so screwed over by the economy and all the tax cuts our last gov put though.
Tuition at my school was 1850 dollars for 12 credit hours and up last semester and now it is almost 2300 dollars for the same credit hours.
In short I am screwed and don't have a choice.
It does not matter though the entire drive train in my car wont be spending too much more time in there anyway. I have a plan on what I want to replace it with I just need to do more research and finaly get a new car so I can put this one into mothballs while i save money.
#7
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> Mine are already warped and I have to replace them because I have
> to drive my car back to school on sunday. I can't drive the car that
> far the way it is so I have to replace them on thursday when I am
> not working.
This might come too late to make a difference for you anyway, but have you tried re-torquing the lug nuts on the rotors you've already got? It don't cost nothing to try, and might give you some improvement for the time being. I've done this a few times on cars I either bought or had in for fixing, and I always felt some improvement in the brake pedal afterwards, ranging from a little to a lot.
Loosen all the lug nuts, add just a drop of oil to the threads of each, and tighten them all sequentially (star-pattern, usually) to whatever the recommended torque setting is for you car, usually 75-100 ft./lbs. (should be in the owner'* manual). I usually do each in two or three steps, adding 10 ft./lbs. to the wrench setting each time until they're up to the specified torque.
If you don't have a torque wrench, get one before you go installing new rotors.
> to drive my car back to school on sunday. I can't drive the car that
> far the way it is so I have to replace them on thursday when I am
> not working.
This might come too late to make a difference for you anyway, but have you tried re-torquing the lug nuts on the rotors you've already got? It don't cost nothing to try, and might give you some improvement for the time being. I've done this a few times on cars I either bought or had in for fixing, and I always felt some improvement in the brake pedal afterwards, ranging from a little to a lot.
Loosen all the lug nuts, add just a drop of oil to the threads of each, and tighten them all sequentially (star-pattern, usually) to whatever the recommended torque setting is for you car, usually 75-100 ft./lbs. (should be in the owner'* manual). I usually do each in two or three steps, adding 10 ft./lbs. to the wrench setting each time until they're up to the specified torque.
If you don't have a torque wrench, get one before you go installing new rotors.
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