well on the SSE/SSEi they have a button option for "defrost" and you can select windshield from the vent options, but ever other car iv been in until a Bonneville its always just been part of the Vent options. i think thats part of the confusing here.

On mine, hitting the defrost button automatically directs to the windshield. I think you're the only one confused...

ummm thats what i just said

i know, iv used it.

After a fruitless search for a compressor delete pully for a '95 88, I bought one for a '96.
Heres the skinny on how to make it work. Two bolt holes lined up fine with the AC compressor bracket and the belt alignment was perfect. The third mounting hole was just "hanging" out in the open. The pulley bracket seemed pretty tight with just two bolts but I feared the cast alum would not hold up under the vibration and load of the belt. I pulled the AC mounting bracket off the engine (3 bolts, real easy) and set it on the bench to do some head scratchin. Going thru my box-o-brackets, I found a old alternator belt adjustment arm off a old Mopar, but any piece of strap steel would work. Thickness of the alternator bracket was about 3/16". With little eyeballin, I bent the bracket to fit to the mounting ear of the delete pully and the other end went to a hole in the AC bracket where the compresor mounted. Bolted everything together and mounted it back in the car, slapped the belt on and fired it up, hot dam, it works!!! Drove the car around awhile with a couple of full throttle runs. Everything held together.I was able to use to same belt also.

Hot air holds much more water vapor. Yes, the hot humid air blowing on your windshield will remove the fog, but if that same air gets all the water squeezed out of it via the ac, then you will have hot DRY air clearing your windshield. If the AC system isn't working, all that moist hot air will just condense all over your side and back windows. In short, you need to remove the moisture from the cabin, and the only way to do it is with that AC going. Plus, if the AC compressor runs a little in the winter, the seals stay soft and last longer.
However, on really cold days, the compressor wont come on much, because the cold air will lower the pressure of the charge in the system, and if minimum pressure is not met, the compressor will not run.
A nice long trip on a snowy, rainy, sleety 30 degree day without that AC going, and you'll notice it.
You'll also be surprised at how damp your carpets will get in the long haul of winter without that AC going.

To AZU: if you are waiting to charge your ac system, make sur that you do at least a double evacuation on your system and keep some gas in there till you recharge it or else you will have moisture corroding your ac internals.

Yes, for sure.. draw a nice, deep vacuum.. I like to keep that vac pump on the system for a good long time, 30 minutes at absolute least. Then, sweep the system with nitrogen, then vacuum it again.. I have NEVER had problems with AC systems if they are repaired and recharged properly the first time.
The last one I did was on my 93 Olds, took a stone to the condenser, replaced it, painstakingly removed and flushed every other component in the system, filled per the service manual with the oil, evac and recharged BY WEIGHT with R134a (converted from R12), ice cold for the next 3 years I had it, sold it to a co-worker, and he still has ice cold air. That was 70K and 5 years ago. Doing this kind of work quickly never pays in the long run.
FWIW, if you are just doing AC work for yourself, you can get a Welch pump sometimes very cheaply on Ebay, they are heavy and awkward, but mine never leaves my garage, unless I'm servicing my house HVAC, and in that case it gets moved on a wheeled cart, and this thing will draw down to below 25 microns. They can be cheap because they are not convenient, but who cares when you are only doing work for yourself?

my pump is a welch 1402. New they are very expensive, used sometimes very cheap. There is one on ebay right now for 50 bucks, but they weigh a TON, so shipping can be outrageous. I got mine on ebay locally, was missing the motor, had a motor collecting dust on a shelf, I tore the pump down to get it nice and clean, refilled with fresh oil, in total, I have less then 60 bucks in mine, runs silently, and it is 10X better than the portable screamers. Just my 2 cents worth. Mike

If it has been sitting since october with nothing but air in it, then a 30inch (you'll never get a perfect 30 inch vaccum) for thirty minutes will be a great start. then you should change the oil on your vaccum pump as it will probably be milky white from moisture pulled out of your system. then i would bring it up to a posotive pressure with some refrigerant(7 -10 psi, the refrigerant pulls any moisture out with it) thenopen the ballast on the pump when you start it and close the ballast immediatly afterwards, and pull the system down for another 30 minutes. you can repeat this purge twice for a total of three evacuations( epa wont fine you for venting this neglagable amount, as it is necessary) after the third evac weigh your charge in. Charging must be done with compresser not running(which wont be a problem because of the vaccum, unless you plan to charge as a gas which would take forever. just remember, a compresser cant pump liquid, so let your high/low side pressures equalize before testing!!!

I've never charged as a liquid, too afraid of ruining the compressor, but yeah if you wait until the system equalizes, should be okay. And yes, it takes forever to charge as a gas, it helps to put the jug of refridgerant in hot water, but very inconvenient with a 30 pound pail, or bigger. Thanks for the tip. Mike