ABS/ Traction Off Problems (again) - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 06-17-2004, 09:42 AM   #11
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It woudl turn both off.. cause they both rely on the speed sensor for readings.
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Old 06-17-2004, 09:54 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drifter420
It woudl turn both off.. cause they both rely on the speed sensor for readings.
I meant to say, I figured it would turn all the LIGHTS off...but the systems would be inoperable, correct?

Also, has ANYONE here ever had luck getting GM to replace parts after the warranty was up by a small amount? or even getting GM to reduce the costs? I called the dealer this morning- that hub sensor was replaced 12 months, 2 1/2 weeks ago, and they said, "Sorry, 12 month warranty only". I'm not too happy that a $400 part broke after one year but i suppose i'll have to bite the bullet (or solder the wires as mentioned here).....
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Old 06-17-2004, 10:26 AM   #13
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The system will be operable.. when it isn't operable thats when it throw the SES so you will have ABS and Traction working now... if you either replace or solder.
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Old 06-17-2004, 11:29 AM   #14
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If you're able to solder the wires back together, assuming this was the only problem, then your entire system will work fine. If you find the wires to be corroded, use some flux paste for copper pipes first on a heated wire, this will clean it enough to solder.

Here'* mine;



It seems you could even buy new connectors and pigtails from the dealer if you like.

Cheers,
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Old 06-17-2004, 12:00 PM   #15
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I agree completely. Definitely try to get under there and solder the wires back to the sensor. It will save you mucho $$$$ and you won't have to worry about it. If you are not good with soldering wires, have a friend come over and help you.

Regardless, if you have to replace the part then DO NOT go to the dealer. If they are not willing to do you any favors, than they do not deserve your business.
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Old 06-17-2004, 03:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CFoote
I agree completely. Definitely try to get under there and solder the wires back to the sensor. It will save you mucho $$$$ and you won't have to worry about it. If you are not good with soldering wires, have a friend come over and help you.

Regardless, if you have to replace the part then DO NOT go to the dealer. If they are not willing to do you any favors, than they do not deserve your business.
I think there may have been a misunderstanding here: I thought people were saying to just solder the two wires that come from the PCV directly together (complete the loop). I don't have any wires which are still sticking out of the sensor, they broke off inside i guess b/c all i see is a plug with two little holes in it. I imagine there used to be two wires which went in there, but if they broke off i don't know if i can fix that w/o replacing the entire sensor unti. Does that plug come out of the sensor, or is it built in?

I know this is hard to explain without pictures, but i'm talking about the black socket with two holes in it which is directly in the hub, NOT the clip in the wiring harness.

Thanks again, i really AM learning alot about my car, even if i have to ask alot of dumb questions en route!
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Old 06-17-2004, 03:39 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brnvs
I think there may have been a misunderstanding here: I thought people were saying to just solder the two wires that come from the PCV directly together (complete the loop).
No!

Quote:
I don't have any wires which are still sticking out of the sensor, they broke off inside i guess b/c all i see is a plug with two little holes in it.
If I'm following this, and if the pigtail wire that broke off just connects to a removable plug at the sensor, then all you need to do is replace the plug (e.g. a similar clip-on plug used on knock sensors and temperature sensors is replaceable; the replacement connector comes with 6"-10" of wire that you splice to the existing wiring harness). If the wire broke off a permanent part of the sensor, then you may be slightly SOL, and have to replace the whole sensor.

As I haven't had to do this myself on the Bonneville, I can't say which is the case here; presumably somebody else can.
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Old 06-17-2004, 04:12 PM   #18
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Yea, there should be a plug going into the hub. You can disconnect this and find a new one (or used from a junkyard) re solder the wires to the new plug and connect it back up to the sensor. Much cheaper than an entire wheel hub which probably wont fix it anyway because its the plug thats broke, not the sensor.
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Old 06-17-2004, 11:13 PM   #19
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happened to me too
i just took it in and i think the problem was a short in the wiring
i have a rice pipe in my car and the metal part of the filter was hanging down on the the wires. it is fine now
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Old 06-18-2004, 01:36 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue
Yea, there should be a plug going into the hub. You can disconnect this and find a new one (or used from a junkyard) re solder the wires to the new plug and connect it back up to the sensor.
I would also point out (though it won't apply in this case since you've already found your broken wires) that simply running low on brake fluid in the reservoir is enough to turn on your ABS and Traction Off warning lights. If the low-fluid switch in the reservoir is triggered, the system will take itself out of action since it "knows" it won't have enough spare fluid to operate with.

So when you get both warning lights and the Bong-Bong-Bong going, the very first, easiest thing to check is whether you're low on brake fluid for any reason. If it isn't up _all_ the way to the Full mark, add some.
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