ABS Light On......Code #41 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 09-17-2006, 01:19 PM   #1
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Default ABS Light On......Code #41

It'* showing Code #41 which is "RF Inlet Valve Curcuit Open or Shorted". Has anyone had experience or would be able to shed some light on trying to correct this code?


By the way, it'* on a 95 SSEi.

Thanks
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Old 09-17-2006, 01:57 PM   #2
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This must be an ABS code pulled by a dealer or mechanic. What that refers to is the 'gate valve' in the PMV (pressure modulator valve) below your airbox. It'* the valve that 'pulses' the brakes by taking away braking force (fluid pressure) when it sees a wheel lock up.

Traction valves work in the same manner, but hold pressure (from the pump on the PMV) at bay, until it notices wheel slip under accelleration.

In this case, if that is indeed the only code, you need to replace your PMV.
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Old 09-17-2006, 02:18 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
This must be an ABS code pulled by a dealer or mechanic. What that refers to is the 'gate valve' in the PMV (pressure modulator valve) below your airbox. It'* the valve that 'pulses' the brakes by taking away braking force (fluid pressure) when it sees a wheel lock up.

Traction valves work in the same manner, but hold pressure (from the pump on the PMV) at bay, until it notices wheel slip under accelleration.

In this case, if that is indeed the only code, you need to replace your PMV.

Thanks for the reply Will,, and yes it was pulled by a Mechanic, and that was the only code. The only other info I can give is that the mechanic said it was probably a broken, or shorted wire, but that it would have to check for myself. I'm going to take a look at the car and see exactly what you're refering to since I've never seen a PMV or really know what to expect. I also have the FSM and will see if I can post those pages that refer to Code #41.
Thanks again Will.
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Old 09-17-2006, 03:19 PM   #4
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It could very well be a wire, but the little valves in the PMV are known to fail with age. That'* what'* wrong with the Zilla. Both TC and ABS valves. One or two of each.

The PMV is the large assembly below your airbox with the brake lines and large wiring harness going to it. If you have an FSM, you can actually check the resistance of each valve.
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Old 09-17-2006, 03:34 PM   #5
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I took the air box out and now have a clear view of the PMV and I see the harness the comes from it. I do have the FSm and I blieve it talks about it from pages 43 to 47 and to be quite honest, although I believe I have all the equipment such as tester, ohms meters, and such to diagnose, I just don't have enough knowledge to figure this out on my own. At this moment I'm at a loss as to where to begin. I'm going to try to read the relevent pages and hopefully I won't get to confused.

Thanks Again Will.
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Old 09-17-2006, 04:17 PM   #6
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when i was getting an ABS light i had the mech at work scan it, I dont remember the codes that came up but i know One or Two where for the PMV and some where for the WSS'*, and the mechanic told me the PMV was fucked and would need to be replaced but it would cost more then the car was worth and id be better off selling it .

F**K that i said, so i fixed all the WSS'* and low and behold i have NO abs light and NO problem with the PMV.

So in conclution i would check the WSS'* first
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Old 09-17-2006, 04:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peterg22000
when i was getting an ABS light i had the mech at work scan it, I dont remember the codes that came up but i know One or Two where for the PMV and some where for the WSS'*, and the mechanic told me the PMV was f*** and would need to be replaced but it would cost more then the car was worth and id be better off selling it .

F**K that i said, so i fixed all the WSS'* and low and behold i have NO abs light and NO problem with the PMV.

So in conclution i would check the WSS'* first

Peter, first off what is WSS'*? And secondly, I only received one code, which is #41 and I believe it'* isolated to the PMV only, so at least I know where to look, it'* just that I'm getting confused as to how to diagnose my real problem. I've been reading pg'* 45 to 47 of the FSM and am getting a headache. So in conclusion..........I am so confused.
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Old 09-17-2006, 04:36 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maymybonneliveforever
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peterg22000
when i was getting an ABS light i had the mech at work scan it, I dont remember the codes that came up but i know One or Two where for the PMV and some where for the WSS'*, and the mechanic told me the PMV was f*** and would need to be replaced but it would cost more then the car was worth and id be better off selling it .

F**K that i said, so i fixed all the WSS'* and low and behold i have NO abs light and NO problem with the PMV.

So in conclution i would check the WSS'* first

Peter, first off what is WSS'*? And secondly, I only received one code, which is #41 and I believe it'* isolated to the PMV only, so at least I know where to look, it'* just that I'm getting confused as to how to diagnose my real problem. I've been reading pg'* 45 to 47 of the FSM and am getting a headache. So in conclusion..........I am so confused.
WSS= Wheel Speed Sensor
and all im saying iw that the PMV code i got was related to the WSS, i ws just sugesting an easy first place to look
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Old 09-17-2006, 04:39 PM   #9
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I've replaced both front wheel bearing so the speed sensors should be new.
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Old 09-17-2006, 10:13 PM   #10
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I took apart the harness that goes to the PMV, it'* sort of a twist off design, and it was very clean contacts, no rust dirt or debris of any kind. I wiggled the wired around with the car idling and had my son sit in the car to see if the ABS light went off, (checking to see if there was a bad contact) but there was no change. On page 44 of the FSM it has a diagram (I wish I could post it but I don't know how) which when referring to the #41 RF Inlet Valve is shows a pink wire on the harness side, I located that wire and checked to see if it was solid or loose at the harness, still no difference. I'm trying people, any other suggestions.

It states in a trouble shooting diagram about checking to see if this wire has between 5 to 8 ohms, should I check with an ohm meter to see if this is correct?
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