when I bought the car the abs light was on and can't get it off al the fuses are good I've tried reseting the code but no luck.? is there a way to test to find out whats wrong I inspected all the connection front rear module..etc. breaks are all new drums rotor pads lines!. I don't get it and the break is still spongy even after bleeding all the air out of the system I used the conventional method of farthest away from the cup did it twice even and it still has air in the system but the bleeders all bleed fluid not air!?? anyone know have any tricks they could share? ABS is not working properly either when I brake it is uncontrolled slides in hard breaking!.. which is a bit concerning! (my sister drives this one)...

im guessing that this a 92-99....have you checked the WSS at all 4 corners to make sure that they are all plugged in and the wires are not broken or freyed?

yes you are correct it'* a 94 and yes all the connectors are conected and nothign is loose is there i way to test with an ohm meter cuz when i tried it couldn't get anything?

the ABS codes must be read by a dealer, no other way around it

shitty deal! but there is no specail way to bleed them correct?, just did it the old fashion way from the bleeders at all four corner farthest from the cup first.

the Bleeding should be done the old fashioned way yes....

thought so, well looks like i'm off to the friggin dealers to throw away good money! ................*walks into dealership bends over and say" okay boys make a quick one!...ouch, ouch!

i recall the scan fee of 100 for the ABS codes

i paid $45 for them to only give me the codes and not tell me what they meant or what was wrong.. they wanted 95 to tell me what was wrong.

It is almost definatly one of the wheel bearing assemblies that are shot.

The ABS sensor is built into the bearing assembly. You can test them with an OHM meter to see if you can find a dead one. Otherwise call around. Midas in the US will tell you exactly what is wrong for $50.
The other way around testing is to purchase 2 hub assemblies (1front & 1 rear) dont mount them, just go around the car and test them to see if the light goes out. Take the one back you dont need.
You should be able to buy these at your local parts store for half the price of the dealer.

Midas wanted $600 to fix the problem, the local garage wanted $400, I did it for $200 including the scan cost.