AArrrgh! 92 SSEi is driving me nuts! - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 09-27-2004, 11:38 PM   #21
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Default Wilren: You must be Mr. Goodwrench or something...

Hey good call, wilren and the others that fingered the cam sensor. The magnet was long gone upon inspection. I got one for $11.00, and following the procedure outlined by the Patchett (sp?) fellow, I JB Welded the new magnet into place. Not only would a new timing job be expensive -- I called two or three shops and they didn't return my calls! I think the location of the motor mount scared them. It'* a big job -- about 4 hours by the labor manual at work. Either way, I am in a bind, and the timing chain is okay -- no sign of being stretched.

It'* out in the drive right now, still apart and waiting for the glue to dry. I won't be able to get it together tomorrow, thanks to Jeane dumping loads of rain on us. Wednesday should be the day of reckoning.

Funny sideline: A guy at work took the magnet (interrupter) and held it to the computer screen in the paint department. Now there is this pinkish-blue spot in the middle of the monitor. For it'* size, that little sucker has a lot of magnetism -- it should provide a signal no problem if the epoxy holds (yeah, I used as much as possible without getting it in spots I didn't want!)
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Old 09-27-2004, 11:49 PM   #22
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Cool. Keep us posted and let us know if it solves all your problems.
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Old 09-28-2004, 10:31 PM   #23
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I put the car back together again and started it up. For the first time since I have owned it, there is NO check engine light (I took the tape off and threw it away -- I HATED that piece of tape because I knew the sucker wasn't really fixed...) Upon starting it, it really ran rough for the first minute of so -- had to feather the gas to keep it running. I had run into that before -- whenever you disconnect the battery it runs like crap until the motor "re-learns" it'* working paramenters.

It ran like a million dollars - no hesitation, smooth idle, great power (yeah, the ricer kicks butt!) and with the Traction Control off it ripped away from a stoplight like mad!

Of course, I still haven't performed a cold start with it now that the computer is all booted up. I'll have to get back to you on that. Also, it seemed to have a minor "dead" spot during the first ten minutes or so. I think it has pretty much disappeared. The next few days will give a better picture.

I can't thank you guys enough for the advice and procedures. If I can return the favor, don't hesitate to contact me.
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Old 09-28-2004, 10:36 PM   #24
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We'll take beer
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Old 09-28-2004, 10:49 PM   #25
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Used to, don't anymore. Too many problems (binge drinking is the Anti-christ!)

If it wasn't for God I'd be dead... literally.

I'm still a car person though -- who knows why. Maybe it'* because I get to help people on a daily basis. Plus, auto parts is a pretty good living.

Appreciate ya. Thanks again!
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Old 09-29-2004, 11:22 PM   #26
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You speak my current language! You forgot a prime rib dinner, side of horseradish, STRONG colombian roast and cherry pie!

If that won't do, I can always throw ya some Buffalo wings (Tums optional)

LOL!
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Old 09-29-2004, 11:26 PM   #27
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Hey -- I still got a cold start issue. Stalls unless you hold it above 1400 RPM for first minute of so.

You know -- I had an old Dodge truck w/ a 318 and a messed up choke. I had to do the same thing. I wound up putting a new carb on. Now, this thing doesn't have anywhere near that system... but it acts the same.

No codes -- not even VATS.

Other than that -- runs FANTASTIC once warmed up.
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Old 10-01-2004, 01:21 PM   #28
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I had that exact same problem (cold-start issue) with my Turbo Coupe, and I was just told it had something to do with the temp sensor on the intake. I don't know how similar these cars are to the Turbo Coupes in that aspect, but thought I'd throw it out there as an idea.

Rick
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Old 10-01-2004, 01:23 PM   #29
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I'd be looking at the MAF sensor and the IAC.
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Old 10-01-2004, 08:37 PM   #30
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I was thinking that too.

How do you test those? Is there a tech item with a listing of resistive values that I can use to troubleshoot? I got a good meter.

I also have an intermittant miss, too, along with a power-robbing bog in midrange.

Related?
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