1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

99 SSEi Disc Brakes?

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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 10:39 PM
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Default 99 SSEi Disc Brakes?

A question for you Bonny experts. I am looking to upgrade to a 1999 SSei . I will be looking at it this weekend. The gentleman doesn't think it has rear disc brakes. Was rear discs an option? My 97 sse brakes poorly and was hoping to get rear disks if possible. Also, the car has a factory sunroof, will I lose any headroom? I am 6'3. Thanks
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 11:15 PM
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Disc brakes were never an option on the 92-99 body style. Properly adjusted Rear Drums will stop just as good as Rear discs

the cars headliner does drop down some with the factory Moonroof, but there are members here that are taller and have no issues with the headroom
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 11:26 PM
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x2 to what Pat said. Rear drums are just fine in a sedan application if good shoes are used. Its the fronts that truly matter.

And I'm 6' 2 1/2", no problem with any bonneville I've ever driven.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 11:52 PM
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Interesting ...what type/brand pads and shoes do you guys recommend. My 98 must have some cheap parts on there , I have to stand on them when I have to stop fast.
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 12:12 AM
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Well these cars are slightly under braked to begin with...and there are no big brake kits available, so we do what we can with good quality pads and rotors.

My personal recommendations:
Rotors:
Bendix - Best for OE style - available at AAP, Checker. Part number 145250
Advance Auto Parts
Summit Racing

PowerSlot Cryo - Best aftermarket IMO - Available TireRack, AJUSA, SummitRacing
Front Left, AJUSA
Front Right, AJUSA

Pads:
Bendix CT-3
Advance Auto Parts

Shoes:
Really doesn't matter, even the cheap ones will work, the most important thing about proper grab is a GOOD, thick shoe, and good adjustment. Although, I do trust bendix for brake parts more than any other brand.
These should do just fine, nice and cheap

As far as other parts of the brake system...you should probably replace the master cylinder at around 100k if not getting a firm pedal, or at least fully bleed the system.
Master Cylinder:
AAP Reman


It is also recommended to replace all brake hoses and inspect all steel brake lines every 100k. Caliper & wheel cylinder replacement at 100k isn't a bad idea either.

Wheel Cylinder(*):
AAP, Both Sides

Calipers:
AAP, Caliper, Left
AAP, Caliper, Right

With all that done, you should definitely see an outstanding increase in braking power.
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 01:09 AM
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Thanks for the help...the timing is good as my brakes are ready for new anyway.
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 03:58 PM
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x2 on the Bendix, I've got CT-3 front ceramics, Bendix rotors, and Bendix rear shoes /w Bendix wheel cylinders. Amazing stopping power.
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by booc
Thanks for the help...the timing is good as my brakes are ready for new anyway.
If you get the feeling you have stand on the brakes it may have had the lifetime guarantee brakes put on. I had that on my 93 and the more they wore the harder they seemed to get requiring more brake pressure. They must use a pad material that gets harder so you'll not wear it all the way down requiring replacement!

I replaced the brake on my 98 with OEM type pads--not ceramic. The car had that original car feel--it grabbed really quickly and required little pedal pressure. Thrid set was Bendix ceramic; not as sensitive but satisfactory.

Adjusting the rear brakes is a big help for that grab when the brakes first go on. I suggest replacing the rear bands even though they don't need it. It will make a big difference as they seem to harden with age and heat.
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