97 SSEi Stalled won't restart - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 09-28-2007, 07:50 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
I should probably mention the dash is held in with about 8 bolts/nuts. Once you remove the console, it should be more accessible.
The plan is to pull the dash only as far as the seats. Reach over...repair the wire and put it all back.
Repairing will be a replacement piece of wire, soldered into place and heat shrink over the connection points. There should be enough wiring that once the console is out, the dash can sit on the seats for 5 minutes while it is fixed.
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Old 09-28-2007, 01:02 PM   #12
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So I'm guessing AAA has MORE than paid for it'* self.....
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Old 09-28-2007, 01:08 PM   #13
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Bill, are you planning on trying to locate the specific point where it broke, or are you just going to run another wire from the fuse box, to the firewall, and call it good?
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Old 09-28-2007, 02:17 PM   #14
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Yes, AAA was well worth the investment.

Archon..I'm not 100% sure yet. I'll remove the fuse block from it'* mounting and look it over to ensure the connector didn't push back out. From the front, it appeared that both tabs were intact....who knows until you get a good look.

If I can locate the issue, then that one area can be fixed. The entire wire will be checked thoroughly.

My thoughts are that once move, the connection will be restored and the problem area will not be found. In that case I will run a new wire the entire way from fuseblock to firewall.
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Old 09-28-2007, 02:29 PM   #15
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Then you can cut the old wire out, and split the insulation off of it to see if you can find the break. Measure and figure out where the wire would have been on the car to try and figure out the possible cause of the issue.
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Old 09-28-2007, 03:00 PM   #16
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Well that looks like a whole bunch of trouble Bill, hope you get it sorted out without too much more grief.

Cheers,
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Old 09-28-2007, 03:31 PM   #17
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Let'* assume 20 minutes to fix it like a redneck and 3 hours to fix it properly. I'm going for the proper solution.

(At least there'* no bong test )
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Old 09-28-2007, 05:01 PM   #18
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Nice job finding it Bill. I too have used AAA and it was well worth it.
Have you checked the contact points on the fuse sockets. Sometimes they can mimick a bad wire if they are loose. In other words, the fuse gets power but is not transferring it to the wire side. It happened to my 96. Went down the Beach and the next day the power windows and the radio went dead. After multiple tests and no results (all fuses good) I finally pulled the module fuse and noticed one side of the socket was loose. Tightened it up and all has been good since. Maybe you already checked for power in the wire and found it. Thus voiding out what I said.

Wires don't usually go bad unless they are pinched, shorted or corroded. There could be a connector under the dash thats corroded. Check your FSM. I've got the 96.
Just a thought before you pull the dash.
Give a hollar if you want help and I'll swing up Sat.
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Old 09-29-2007, 12:37 AM   #19
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Got the wire bypassed and was testing it. No start. Fuel pump isnt' priming. Cranking is very slow and voltage is around 10V. Put the charger on it for the night. Will see if the PCM was too low of voltage to tellt things to work.
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Old 09-29-2007, 12:48 AM   #20
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I am impressed with your troubleshooting abilities.

You just don't give up.
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