For the past week or so, I've noticed my blower motor turning off randomly and then coming back on a few seconds later. It didn't annoy me too much.

Today, I started my car in the middle of the day, and the blower motor would not come on. Later on, while idling in the drive-thru (I think my coolant hit 205-210°), it came on immediately and worked for the rest of my drive.

I started my car next late at night, and the blower motor would not come on. However, it never turned on (and the coolant never went over 180°).

I replaced the motor a few years ago. Think it'* time for a new one, or should I be looking at other parts, like the resistor?

What speeds are giving you issues? IIRC you have the **** based climate controls? Those had resistors for all but the high speed. High speed was a direct to battery via relay speed. Therefore if it happens on high speed, then it'* the blower motor. All other items may be the blower module.

Located under the maxifuse relay center on the top of the blower box.

Great advice as usual.

It happens on all speeds, regardless of where the **** is, so I suppose that rules out the resistor, and probably rules out the relay.

The fact that it doesn't turn on until hot throws me for a loop. I forget if it did this last time before it died completely.

When you hop in the car if it'* not working, pop the hood and take off your boat shoe/flip flop and give the motor a little whack. It likely will fire up and work with a few light hits.

Did that one at a Steak and Shake in the middle of the country when crossing.

Tonight, I went to check for voltage at the plug. Before I could do anything, I bumped the wires and the blower turned on for a second. After fighting to get the plug out, I found the culprit: a melted connector.

I can cut it off and solder on a new one, but I'd really like to know why it melted in the first place before I go and do that. Would not having a blower motor hose attached cause that?

connectors in general usually melt because of the escalating effect caused by slightly poor connection causes heat which worsens the connection which causes heat, etc.. couple that with the blower takes a bit of current normally and it wouldnt take much to make your connector look like that

For sanity reasons, is there a way to disable the fan until I can get it fixed?

I tried removing the cooling fan fuse (5C), but that just set DTC'* P1651 and P1652.

just leave the connector off and tape it up

I came across this interesting thread. Do you think it'* worth tearing apart my dash (something I've never done) to replace the blower motor resistor, or do you think replacing the blower motor plug and hose will suffice?

its been my experience that resistors either good or open they almost never change resistance. which would have to happen to give the motor excess current. if the connections were getting bad that would decrease current to the blower.

whats the hose for, a cooling vent? sometimes when motors get hot or start going out they would draw more current