96 Buick Regal Custom - Engine 'Exploded?' - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-27-2007, 09:58 PM   #21
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96 had a campaign recall on Bonnevilles to return them to the dealership to flash the PCM to avoid this exploding intake problem.
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Old 11-27-2007, 10:37 PM   #22
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no such things for buicks? if so, would a buick dealer still honor that?
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Old 11-28-2007, 02:00 AM   #23
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Kevin you will never see any help out of GM on the explosion unless some one was injured in the explosion and went to the hospital.
When my Regal exploded I went round and round with GM and talked to more than one lawyer.
All GM will tell you is your car is out of warranty go away.

Are you going to scrap the car or repair it your self?
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Old 11-28-2007, 03:47 AM   #24
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well, the cost is the parts is the only real thing im worrying about right now, my dad could probably help me out with the labor. i looked around it'll be ~150-250 dollars to fix in parts as long as there aren't damages i don't know about

what luck have you had repairing yours?

don't want to send it to a scrap yard and don't want to buy a "new" used car with possibly worse problems. however, i can't afford a money pit
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Old 11-28-2007, 11:44 AM   #25
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you can get new or used intakes on ebay for 50 or less. If you decide to fix it, when its up and running take it to the dealer to get the PCM flashed. It should be free.
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Old 11-28-2007, 02:45 PM   #26
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Keven the first thing you want to do is remove the fuel pump and ignition relays from the right side fuse box.
Then open the radiator drain and let the coolant drain out.
Then you will attack it with a shop vacuum and suck up all the white stuff and all the bits of plastic that went down the intake runners. You will have bits of plastic siting on top of the pistons too.

Just my 2 cents worth but I would fix the no starter problem before doing any thing else.
With the fuel and ignition relays removed and the intake ports cleaned out it will be safe to fix the no start problem and spin the motor over.
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Old 11-28-2007, 06:32 PM   #27
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ron:

hmmm, does this mean i'll be taking the heads off? I saw some bits almost down in there but i managed to pick them out. will the bits just blow out? were you able to repair your deal?
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Old 11-28-2007, 07:11 PM   #28
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You should only have bits lodged in the ports with the valves open. the runners you could vacum out.
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Old 11-28-2007, 10:45 PM   #29
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No you do not need to remove the heads.

I made the mistake of rotating the motor by the accessory belt and dropped lots of plastic into the cylinders.
It just so happened that 5 intake valves were open when I started vacuuming out the intake ports. One valve was held open by a long sliver of plastic intake. I used two vacuum cleaners to clean out the cylinders the best I could without having a bore scope. Rotate the motor so that the intake valve is open stick one vacuum hose in the intake port and with the other vacuum cleaner blowing air in the spark plug hole. I did this several times and reversed the vacuum and pressure direction of the hoses. You can do the same thing with just one shop vac but I had better airflow using two.

My Regal is on the bottom of my list of things to finish.
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Old 11-29-2007, 12:40 PM   #30
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were you able to get enough out to continue repairs?
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